Frayed knot there, Dave. This motor is a PSC type (permanent split
capacitor), and it may be a good idea to try to find the specifications for
this motor (by the numbers on the labels), before expecting very much from
it. A GE dealer may be able to get you a spec sheet if you can't find it
online.
One reason for getting the manufacturer's specifications is because the
motor may have a limited duty cycle.. many PSC motors do, although the CL-A
INS CONT. may mean Class A INSulation, CONT (duty) with AIR moving OVER the
motor.
The other reason is because the 158 MFD seems unusually large for a small
motor.
The capacitor should be a Run capacitor (not a start cap), and 150
microfarad (uF) is a fairly large value for a Run cap. Motor capacitors are
AC-types only (generally not available at places like that Shack store), and
are aluminum canisters with large terminals on them.
The 158.0 MFD looks odd to me, because run caps for motors this size are
usually less than 50 microfarad.
***Important part***
If you're unsure of any of the connections, you'll need to get some help
from someone that is experienced and qualified to work with motor wiring.
The diagram descriptor "LINE" means the 2 AC power cord leads.
When one AC power lead is connected to the red, and one to the white, the
motor will run in the direction indicated by the arrow ROT.
If the AC power lead is changed from the red to the black (leaving the other
AC power lead connected to the white, as it was), then the motor will run in
the opposite direction.
Any AC line source needs a switch to disconnect the power, and including a
fuse is always a sensible decision.
The capacitor is permanently wired between the black and red motor leads.
One AC power lead will connect to the Red motor lead as the diagram shows.
The White motor lead is the other AC power lead.
The Brown motor lead needs to be insulated and kept separate (no
connection).
The standard wiring connections would be a 3-wire AC power cord (with
ground/green lead).
The Green lead is solidly connected to the motor housing for the earth
safety ground connection.
It's always an excellent idea to attach the green/ground lead first (for
almost any kind of electrical work).
If you sometimes don't attach it first, you'll probably find out why it's
the best approach, eventually. Operating electric motors without a
safety/earth ground lead securely connected to the motor case will
potentially create a shock hazard, which under certain circumstances can be
lethal.
The White AC power cord lead would be attached to the White motor lead, and
the connection is well-insulated.
The capacitor is installed between the Red and Black motor leads.
If you want the motor to run in the direction of the label arrow, the Black
AC power cord lead will attach to a suitable switch, then the fuse, and then
the Red motor lead (at the same point where it attaches to one capacitor
terminal).
Then this junction is well-insulated.
The capacitor connection to the Black motor lead is also well-insulated.
Any other bare metal parts of any of the connections are also
well-insulated.
When the motor is mounted where it is wanted, you'll need to locate a place
to securely mount the capacitor and the well-insulated fuse (or fuse
holder).
If at some time in the future, if you want to reverse the rotation of the
motor, this can be accomplished by:
(a) removing the connection where the Black AC power cord (switched-fused)
lead attaches to the Red motor lead and the one capacitor terminal, and
(b) connect that Black AC power cord lead to the Black motor lead (where it
connects to the other terminal of the capacitor).
Then the bare junctions are well-insulated before ever plugging in the AC
power cord.
WB
..........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html
wrote in message
oups.com...
Electrical is a big weak point for me... I think I can do what I want
with this, but maybe somebody can take a look and see...
http://www.ejearchive.com/temp/motor.jpg
I can just hook the red and black up to a grounded power cord on that
and be done, right? The green does go to the chassis for ground. I
don't need to have a power switch or anything. This is to power my
parts tumbler project.
While I'm at it... I need to push a 5/8" rubber hose onto a 5/8" shaft
for about 3 feet and have the rubber not spin once it's on there...
But after about 6", it gets pretty hard to push onto the shaft.
Anybody got any tricks? I was thinking maybe put soapy water on there
and then when the water dries out it might be tight enough.
Thanks for any help,
Dave
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