dennis@home wrote:

"Steve" wrote in message
. uk...

The finished floor will be thickened by a further 15mm as we have T&G
engineered oak floor to go on top of the Caberboard. This should help
with the point loading but will not help much with any bounce if there
is any.

Metal plates would be a good idea but would be difficult to implement
with the oak floor.

What will stop the piano marking the floor?
160kg on most castors is going to put grooves in a wooden floor IME.

Hopefully the cups will do that. It is presently sitting on a laminate
floor on those cups at my sister in law's , who is piano sitting for us
(350 miles away) and they report no damage to the floor.


It is unlikely that the piano would be moved from the spot. There just
isn't the room!

I wondered what the acoustics will be like and if it will hold tune if
the floor sags unevenly.
Is there a mechanism to level the piano or doesn't it matter?

Yes, this is also a worry... tuning is not cheap and any settlement
could put it off tune. Hence the need to stiffen the floor as much as
possible.

Have you considered casting some concrete pads under the floor and
building some small supporting piers in the correct places?
It is probably easy if you are going to cover the floor.

Thanks this option looks to be the best so far and would be relatively
easy to do while the floor is open.

BTW you can get some nice electronic pianos these days that play like
the real thing and don't need maintenance every six months, take up less
space and are cheap(er).

Tell my wife ;-) We did have a Yamaha electronic piano for several years
but even to my untrained ear it was not a touch on a proper piano. A
concert grand is in a different league yet again.

Steve