"Dan" wrote in message
. ..


Frank

Frank-thanks for the reply. I'm using a good quality blade (Forrest
woodworker II) which I have measured & which has minimal runout. Plus I
am measuring at the same point on the blade front & back (rotating the
blade). I understand what you mean about tolerances stacking up. I also
understand the issue may not be purely the top is uniformly lower in the
front; could be one corner, etc. However a .016 variation is more than
1/64 of an inch. This amount would make it virtually impossible to make
anything like a tight edge miter of any length (say, for a speaker
cabinet) with the blade tilted. I expect more from a $2000 saw.


I would at this point suggest to first take Frank's advice and start cutting
some wood. While exacting tolerances are a plus, sometimes we cannot take
full advantages of these fine settings because of the quality of the
material that we cut and or out technique can be sub par to the machine
tolerances.
First see how the saw cuts at a 45 degree bevel. If you don't see any kerf
marks or burning you should be good to go.
We often get a bit too wrapped up in using a dial indicator to measure
"everything".
If you are not happy with the cutting results call Powermatic and get them
involved.