On Sep 11, 8:59 am, "Pete C." wrote:
Too_Many_Tools wrote:
On Sep 10, 5:11 pm, "Pete C." wrote:
wrote:
On Sep 10, 3:47 pm, Brent wrote:
I've posted a few questions off and on about things like putting
Machine tools on a wood floor and on insulating a shop. I figured i
would post an interim update on how my shop upgrade is going.
I decided AGAINST erecting a structure and went the shipping container
route instead. I made that realization wen i figured out i would not
likely be staying at this house forever. If 9 of the 10 heaviest
items i own (Excluding my CAR) are already in the shipping container
it will make future moves EXTREMELY easy. So i'm now the Proud owner
of a 20 foot shipping container.
Cars fit in them fine too...
I started by getting a bed delivered of "granular A" gravel material,
And i wound up getting about 4 tons too much.
Oops.
I got it and spread it and then tamped it down (14 tons of gravel with
a guy using a shovel took longer than i thought)
Exercise.
i bought a used container that was WAY older than i thought it was
(Close inspection revels it was built in 1971) but has no structural
rust to speak of so i'm essentially happy BUT i need to find out where
i can buy container hardware to redo one of the locking tabs
They last a long time. I'm not sure what vintage my 40' is, but it is in
pretty much mint condition, barely a ding.
The container is delivered and resting on eight pads made up of a pair
of 4 inch solid concrete blocks. For the most part not all are
touching but if there is any settling the open ones will start taking
the load
The four corners is all you need, and all that is normally supported on
these things when fully loaded.
I've ground and primed all the surface rust spots and i'm in the
process of respraying the exterior to white
Nice. Mine came with a fresh coat of industrial gray, my favorite color.
Should i replace the numbers and identifiers? it said NICU 87214 as an
ID and i think that might be significant enough to return to the box
possibly?
Not unless you think they look cool or expect to have it shipped
internationally.
Electrical will hopefully get resolved this week
I'm planning on running 100A of 240V 1Ph to it and i'm tryig to figure
out whether thats best done with four Camlock Connectors or with a pin
in sleeve connector and finding 4 conductor 4 gauge cable
The cam locks and individual conductors (type W?) are generally the way
to go with anything over about 60A as complete cables become a bear to
handle.
Since i'm in canada i know i will need to run Heat and AC to it along
with lights
Yep. Might want to consider LP for heat though, unless your electric
rates are real low.
I figure i need 100A since as a single user the worst sustained use i
can hit is WELDER + Compressor + heat + lights. which t me works out
to in the ballpark of 80A at 240V
Yep, no reason to skimp. Install a nice 20-32 space panel in the
container.
3 phase if and when required will be done via VFD for machine tools
liek the mill and i will install an RPC
Good.
my only OTHER concern was insulation and so far i think my best option
is to frame the inside with 2x2's and insulate with the pink styrofoam
stuff then drywall over that with the best fire resistant drywall i
can afford.
My suggestion would be to skip framing and instead glue thick insulboard
(like 2" EPS) to the inside of the container and then glue FRP panels on
top of that (with the nice trim strips between them. FRPs are commercial
grade, fire resistant, washable (food prep area rated), and quite
durable. They're expensive in 1s and 2s at the big box places, but
ordering enough for a container from a real building supply place should
be a lot better.
I've decided to delay adding windows and a human access door to the
side until next year for budget reasons. It means a little more rework
next year but getting the shop ready to go is more important. than
making it pretty and if i have to live with a closed box with all
electric lighting it wont kill me for the winter
Best route on this is to cut a hole in the side of the container and
weld in a regular commercial door frame (and install the door of
course). Use this normal door for access and leave the end doors locked.
You can probably get such a door used at a salvage place cheap. Don't
skip this as it's a safety issue.
Just figured i'd post on how it was doing and look for some feedback
on the insulation and electrical issue
Pictures, we want lots of pictures 
1st on the list- if you go in and close the door (to keep the heat in,
etc.) make sure there's a way to keep someone on the outside from
locking you in.
That and the fact that you can't fully close the doors from the inside
without leaving the lock bars where a slight bump could lock them
without any malicious assistance.
2nd- emergency air vent?
RV type vents will install easily and inexpensively. Can't stack other
containers on top after that, but I don't expect that will be an issue.
Insulation that won't burn, even if exposed, might be worth a little
extra effort.
As noted above
Maybe a small (but you can fit through it) emergency hatch at the rear
is in order.
RV vent / escape hatch again.
Have fun
Pete C.
Three comments....
1) If you use LP/gas for heat be sure to vent...they produce
considerable water vapor that you won't like in the enclosed space
with nice tools.
Absolutely. You'd use one of the Mr. Heater vented garage heaters, or
perhaps an RV heater. Absolutely never use one of the unvented heaters.
2) Do you need a vapor barrier for the insulation? I think you will
have condensation on the inside of the container and you don't want
your insulation to become saturated.
If you're gluing extruded polystyrene foam to the inside of the
container and then FRP panels on top of that with staggered joints, I
think you have all the vapor barrier you'd need.
3) Big agreement about the walkin door....two exits always for fire
safety.
Yes, and if you find a suitable salvage place, used commercial metal
frame doors should be very cheap. Commercial space gets demod and
rebuilt constantly and these days they're pretty good about reclaiming a
lot of the materials.
Pete C.
Well at this point the paint phase is done and construction and
modification begins
i TOTALLY struck out at finding a metal door and frame. the only metal
framed doors i found were GLASS doors liek the entrance to a lawyers
office or boutique.... Not appropriate for my application
Next I'm calling the window and door manufacturers looking for miscuts
or refused orders. If they had to take back a door its of limited
usefulness to them and since i can cut my opening to fit its very
useful to me