Tim,
BEFORE you start mucking about with the shaft . . . does it have a keyway?
Does the pulley have a keyway? If neither have a keyway, how is the pulley
locked to the shaft?
The point is IF the SHAFT has a keyway, almost everything else can be easily
{relatively ?} solved. The shaft is the problem . . . hardened material and
relatively inaccessible to hand tools. A decent machine shop - or better
yet - a motor repair shop - can cut a keyway. {I wouldn't necessarily have
them turn the shaft - unless it was an *non-standard* size. Will you 'junk'
the saw when you 'up-grade' & keep useful parts? Or sell it off? }
Pulleys are available with keyways already cut, or you could cut them
yourself - by hand. Then you don't need an 'interference fit', or a
'set-screw on a flat'. Either a true 'Woodruff Key' ?} or a bit of square
stock. Isolation from any slight imbalance could be taken care of with one
of those 'sectional-adjustable drive belts'.
Just my 'engineers mind' given free-reign . . .
Regards & Good luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
{Everybody seems to have one of those convenient 'Farm Stores' near-by. I
even see the 'Tractor Supply Store' commercials on the local channels . . .
where's mine? }
"Tim Douglass" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 04 Sep 2007 23:04:00 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:
In article , Tim Douglass
wrote:
Now I have in hand a proper cast iron pulley. The shaft and bore both
are supposed to be 5/8", but I still can't get the pulley to go on. So
what do I do next? I'm thinking that I could heat the pulley with my
heat gun then slip it quickly in place, but I'm not sure that will
really work. Otherwise I could buff a few thou. off the shaft - it
seems to be a bit rough, so that might be a good idea anyway.
Agree with Upscale that if you're going to mod anything, it should be the
pulley arbor and not the motor shaft.
Do you have access to a good dial caliper, to measure the OD of the shaft
and
the ID of the arbor? You may have a 16mm motor shaft (0.6299") instead of
5/8".
I went after them with my better dial calipers (the ones I use for
reloading rather then the shop ones) I got .625 for the pulley and
.627 for the shaft. That is probably within tolerance for the
low-budget-no-name Chinese motor maker. The shaft is pretty rough -
like it wasn't final ground after the lathe or something.
If they're close (within a couple thousandths) you can pop the pulley on
by
heating it -- but probably not with a heat gun. Think torch, and heavy
leather
gloves.
That's what I wondered, just how hot I would need to get things.
If they're not close... what you do next depends on what you measured
with the
caliper. If the motor shaft is really supposed to be 5/8 (0.625) and it's
actually 16mm, either you take it back to the point of purchase, or you
get a
16mm pulley. If the pulley is undersize, you could ream or bore it out.
I don't have the equipment to bore out the pulley that precisely, but
wouldn't be hard to take the shaft down those couple thou. with some
silicon carbide paper and a metal backing block against the spinning
shaft. I'll think about it a bit and see what other suggestions crop
up on here.
Thanks all.
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
Warning: Spelling errors in this message are the product of a poor school
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