Two choices here, rough turn it thick, let it dry (1 to 6 months), and
then return, or turn to final thickness (about 1/4 inch), let it dry
(about 10 days) and warp, then sand and finish. The biggest difference
is the warped bowls are a lot harder to sand if you are hand sanding.
If you power sand, then the warped bowls are easy. I do get better
success rates (no splitting) with the finish turned bowls than I do
with the thick bowls. If it drys too fast, it cracks, and if it drys
too slow, then in molds. You have to figure out what works best for
you.
robo hippy

On Aug 28, 7:05 pm, "Toller" wrote:
I appreciate your concern, but the edges are quite solid, with lovely grain.
I think it will be okay.

"Old guy" wrote in message

news:tc4Bi.79189$Fc.57557@attbi_s21...

WARNING--

Wet cherry wood may contain the "pit beetle" which will emerge and eat
pits in all your wood stock.

I have a secret method of dealing with those little fellows, you'd better
send those burls to me (carefully isolated in double plastic bags) before
your wood stock experiences unmentionable damage.

(Looking forward to seeing some pics of fine projects.)

Old Guy

"Toller" wrote in message
news
I bought three half log cherry burls at an auction. The logs were cut in
half and the ends were somewhat coated but not very well. I expect they
have been stored like that for some time.

Today I cut them into turning blanks. The newly cut wood measures 14-16%
moisture, compared to 24+ for fresh wood and about 8% for kiln dried in
my basement. So, they are pretty dry, but not bone dry.
A large piece of roughcut 12/4 curly maple I bought at the auction also
measures 14-16%, so it was probably just humid where they were stored.

Do I:
1) rough turn them, dry them, and finish turn them.
2) just finish turn them now
3) let them dry, and then finish turn them
4) something else