On Aug 21, 4:38 pm, B A R R Y wrote:

I tried it on QSWO, red oak, maple, and pine, and was so excited about it, I kept looking for different scraps! I'm in the process of finishing a bunch of trim, so tomorrow I'll see how Ultrastar goes
over it.

Thanks for a great tip!

Thanks for the follow up, Barry! I always get a charge out of helping
someone else get ahead, as I have certainly had my share of help on
occasion. That formula has been with me for so long I am not sure
where I got it, but the original was different. This one is the "all
purpose" version.

Don't even try it with regular turps; total waste of time as I found
it. It remains oily. Something in the heavy alkali of the natural
turps would be my guess that breaks down the BLO a bit.

I used to make it a little thicker, and when I didn't understand what
Japan drier actually did, I used to put in some of that, too. I am
not sure why, except it seemed like a good idea at the time. Now I am
set with two medium coats.

I have found a few good swipes of that will help seal some wood
against warpage (think half lap doors) and help stabilze long trim
pieces. It works great as a wash coat under stains, glazes, varnish,
poly... you name it. Just enough shellac in this to prime and seal.

I will be interested (as in very) to see how it works under the
Cambell. I have used it under water white NC with great success. I
liked the tone it gave the wood (birch) since water white gives you NO
grain enhancement or toning. As you know, it looks like someone
wrapped teh wood in saran wrap. So I am wondering how you will like
it under your UltraStar...

Post results!

Robert