Use Velcro to mount the remote in the box and the box to the tractor
and add some degree of shock absorption - though you might have to
screw the Velcro down to make sure the adhesive doesn't let go and
drop the remote in the middle of the Back Forty. Or backup the
adhesive with some 1/8" rope and make a little "safety leash" so it
can't go far.

The raw remote unit is made for a cushy passenger car visor and
isn't going to like being bounced around in a tractor toolbox, and it
really won't like the hammer being dropped on it multiple times...

Good points here. Milady came home with three new units today. I'm going to
have her get some kind of liner and cover so the units stay unbounced and
clean inside the tool box. I found out this old hard German skull is good
for something - it makes one hell of an antennae. If you put the remote on
your forehead to engage the button; range is more than double.


And avoid the "Rolling Code" remotes in the future, in an industrial
setting you aren't really worried about someone snagging the code.
First they have to get into the front gates, and past the "puppies".
(The Rottweiler mix ones with the bad attitude toward strangers.)

The good old fashioned Stanley Multi-Code 300/310 MHZ units work
just fine, and you can program 500 remotes to one receiver with the
same code - done all the time at condo complex vehicle gates.

I've rebuilt this sears opener twice now. it has plastic gears that don't
hold up. next time I'll get an all new opener with the receiver units you
recommend.

Karl