On Fri, 17 Aug 2007 23:50:40 -0700, "
wrote:

On Aug 17, 11:39 am, Renata wrote:

First, let me say - Thanx very much for all the advice/help!!

Absolutely no problem. I always enjoy helping someone that is out
there going after it, someone that appreciates the help. I don't see
any reason for anyone to suffer along the same trail as I have to
learn this stuff.

Been away for last few days, so haven't done much, but 'puttering' at
the moment, so decided to check back here.

First new rule for me - thin the BLO, apply 2 coats.

Stop at two. Don't be afraid to drop the hammer on the thinner. I
cut it wayyy down like I said so I can get those little resin bonds in
motion as soon as possible.

I have stopped slathering actually, since I noticed as well, that I
was wiping off what I had just put on. Try to get an one even, thin coat that doesn't require much wiping afterwards (I do wipe, but I'm not removing much excess).

Wait until you thin it down. You won't believe how little you will
wipe off. On a hot day with something like maple, you probably won't
wipe anything off! (That is a very good thing!) But I would still
wait about a week before final finishing if you have it, no matter
what the top coat choice will be.

Yes, but what else pops the grain as nicely?

My very favorite formula, bar none: 1/3 shellac sanding sealer
(Zinseer off the shelf for me as I don't make my own), 1/3 BLO, and
1/3 gum spirits turpentine. Wipe on two thin coats, and you can be
finishing the next day. It evens out the grain and will take a light
sanding, and the shellac seals the surface. As you work. Put it on
with an old tee shirt you have run through the dryer by itself to get
any lint off of it you can.

Do NOT use mineral spirits in that formula, or paint thinner, but gum
spirits only. I don't know what it is, maybe the high alkaline
content in real pine/fir turps as opposed to the manufactured stuff,
but the gum ingredient makes the difference. You can still find it
still at most of the smaller hardware stores. I buy mine at a local
ACE and it has a pine branch on it. It will remind you of your
grandpa's garage when you open the can.

Was gonna research this - but then you went and read my mind. Thanx
for stressing gum only as sometimes I get impatient and work w/what I
have.


I have found NC to be very forgiving, very responsive to
experimentation, and very reliable.

Know a good brand/ have any recommendations?

My favorite is pretty expensive and is mail order only. It is about
$45 or so a gallon with a two gallon minimum.

What is it?
I had to order the Hydrcote mail order and was planning on perhaps
trying the magnaseal from them. I was highly pleased with their
service and I had the stuff in a few days.
Since I only probably need about 2 more gallons, that' probably not an
issue.
So, please share...


But I have had great success with the Old Master's brand and use it
frequently. Check this out:

http://www.oldmastrs.com/ctrOilBClears.html

Go down a few entries and you will see "Clear Wood Finish". That's
the stuff. That link also has the MSDS sheets and some appliction
guidelines. You can find this at a lot of better paint stores, and I
buy mine at a local Benjamin Moore dealer.

Then there's good old DEFT. I still use this stuff on occasion as it
is easy to apply, very forgiving and will thin/cleanup/recoat just
about as well as any finish out there. It wears really well, too.

I've used this in brush on form in days gone by. Recall it had a
funky smell. But, I did like the end result.

At this point, I'm seriously leaning to switching to something oil
borne for the handles. They seem to be the only problematic pieces.

If the pieces are a problem and you are worried about wear, coating
application, etc., go back to that link and look at their gel
varnish. That is a great product. I am not much for wipe on products
as they take too many applications and too much time. That's why I
bought the spray system. But on the other hand, if a product works,
why not. Their brand of gel varnish was a surprise for me and about
three coats (that will look nice) is acceptable in my timing schedule.

These handles are all a problem. Just looked at 2 more that I though
had had plenty of time to dry, and the finish is "blistering" on the
face of the walnut.

Since the handles aren't a big deal, wipe on wouldn't kill me (time is
much more important). But, I'm thinking of stripping the doors I've
already done and refinishing them and the others (that aren't yet
sprayed) withi somehting other than the Hydrocote lacquer. So, one
product fo everything is better.

They need to be scraped (which means removing the drawer fronts, probably - primal scream!), cleaned as you suggest, the corners knocked off more, possibly have the BLO touched up, then put an oil based finish over the works.

Don't even try to put NC over water borne. One of my amigos tried it
after he messed up his water borne application and it realy made a
huge mess that showed up about 10 days later.
He sanded the rails and stiles clean (carcass construction) but gave
up and remade the doors.

It is a GOOD thing you said this. Because, that's exactly what I was
thinking about, figuring the waterborne had plenty of time to dry (on
the doors, not the handles - them I would've stripped).


It is hard to go back over something, but it will be harder for you to
look at the work you did and hate it more every day. Worse, you will
be explaining to everyone what happened, how it happened, why it
doesn't look right, and all the other crap that will take away from
the fact you made the cabinets. That in itself is something to be
proud of!

Yup, you got me pegged.
My neighbors just told me to stop being such a perfectionsist. Hard
to change at this point.


Besides... you'll never make this same mistake again, right?

Oh yes indeed, never again. There's so many new ones (mistakes) just
waiting to be made.


Just gotta investigate a good finish (which I'm hoping you folks will give me additional info so I can cheat this process).
I do have an HVLP system, so it will be suitable for spray.

There are a lot of good finishes out there and many ways of applying
them. But you won't regret spending time with the lacquer learning
curve, water borne or NC. Compare lacquer to other finishes and you
can see why it is the standard for almost all cabinet shops, on site
finishing (me!), no site refinishing (me!) and for many furniture
makers (think French polish). This is NC only:

- Cleans up easily
- Easy to repair
- Flexible mixing allows adjustments for temp and humidity
- Easy to build up a thick finish quickly
- Second, third and fourth coats can be applied the same day
- Compatible will 99% of stains and dyes
- Small imprefections are easy to buff out
- Quick dry times make the "contamination window" small;
this is really important when finishing in a small shop or garage
- Easy to get, and not expensive to use
- Requres no special equipment for application
- Gives a great finish

All excellent reasons!


All good reasons to keep this finish in your back pocket for use.

Keep postin'. We'll get you squared away!

Robert

Thanx.
My plan is to switch to something oil based, and redo the handles.
Probably the doors as well. I can now spray in a better ventilated
area so water borne isn't an issue. I like your lacquer suggestion,
just gonna figure out which one to use - too many choices!

Renata