Derek Geldard wrote:
On Sat, 18 Aug 2007 13:46:15 -0700, wrote:

wrote:

I have understood that switching fluorescent lamps - tubes - on and
off was not a good idea and that they should be switched on and left
on. Unlike filament lamps which do not seem to mind.
How do the modern CFLs compare/suffer etc etc?? I know that they can
take a minute or two to warm up and maximise their light output.
If they should be switched on and left on, then they begin to defeat
the very purpose of having energy saving CFLs fitted.
a popular myth

Which one?

Could you point out please the particular myth you refer to?

http://www.wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index....scent_Lighting


Could you expand on that? It's a rather large webpage but all it says
on lamp life is :

"Tube life depends on type of ballast (& starter where used), and how
often the tube is switched on and off."

Which is correct but not specially helpful.

BTW Mr. Meow. we had another CFL fail yesterday after 6 months service
in a cap down open fitting. It was a Feit electric 23 watt spiral
offered for sale promising a 5 year life. The phosphor is quite
significantly darkened and the top of the plastic end cap containing
the electronic ballast has been toasted brown, what happened to the
cheap Chi/Taiwa-nese pcb assy inside is anyone's guess.

DG

I've noted the same, and that later models have a breather hole in them.

Classic case of insulated electronics failing after prolonged 'on' periods.

I remember having this issue once with some gear I designed: A probe
inside showed the unit took nearly ten hours to reach equilibrium - or
would have. It generally failed after 7..;-) ten holes.. 5 in the top
and 5 in the base made it totally reliable.