On Aug 10, 7:50 pm, Robert Allison wrote:
Mike Dobony wrote:
"Robert Allison" wrote in message
news:Fusui.4423$zg3.3153@trnddc04...

marson wrote:

On Aug 8, 7:15 am, "Mike Dobony" wrote:

"marson" wrote in message

legroups.com...

On Aug 7, 8:20 pm, "Mike Dobony" wrote:

"marson" wrote in message

legroups.com...

On Aug 6, 10:14 pm, "Mike Dobony" wrote:

"big e lewis" wrote in
...

New polebarn, I will be putting in insulation in roof and walls for
inside heating for Michigan winters. Surprisingly, the cost is about
the
same for either locally. I would prefer OSB on the walls, to make it
easier to build shelves, ect onto. Is this a problem, or is there a
reason to use drywall? Thanks, Earl

Fire resistance and vapor barrier fiberglass requires a fire
resistance
covering (drywall) per code and manufacturers instructions.

If it attached to your house, then you will need a one hour separation
which would require drywall. For a freestanding polebuilding, I know
of no code that requires you to drywall it.

What about insurance companies dropping coverage for not following
manufacturer's instructions?

What manufacturer's instructions are you talking about?

Read the vapor barrier on fiberglass insulation. It requires flame
retardant covering.

I haven't used kraft faced fiberglass in years and years.

Me either. It is against code to use it here if you have housewrap on the
exterior.

The houses here have both kraft faced insulation and house wrap.

You are then creating a pocket of space that will store
moisture and therefore create the perfect environment for mold
and decay. It is against code to encapsulate a wall that way
here. It could be a regional thing, I don't know.

If you MUST use faced insulation in this area, then you MUST
cut slices in the paper to ventilate the secondary vapor barrier.

I will give you an excerpt from this site:

http://www.oldhouseweb.com/stories/Detailed/10362.shtml

In mixed climates (not fitting either of the above
definitions), the vapor retarder should be placed to protect
against the more serious condensation condition, summer or
winter. If in a mixed climate the winter indoor relative
humidity is kept below 35 percent, a vapor retarder at the
interior side of the insulation is usually not required, and
an exterior vapor retarder strategy is most effective. Where
winter interior humidity is not controlled or if a humidifier
is used, an interior vapor retarder is most useful. Vapor
retarders should never be placed on both sides of a wall.
Where a vapor retarder is employed, the opposite wall surface
must provide a permeable surface to allow drying to occur.
Thus, in hot, humid, cooling climates, where a vapor retarder
is employed at the exterior, the interior wall surfaces should
be permeable. No vapor retarder paints, kraft-faced
insulation, or vinyl wall coverings should be used.
Conversely, in northern heating climates, with interior vapor
retarders, the exterior wall coverings should be vapor permeable.

--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX

And in cold climates, we use 6 mil poly, caulked to the floor plywood,
with all electrical outlets and attic bypasses etc caulked and
sealed. Seams taped or caulked. This is required by code. Our local
inspectors would never let kraft paper pass in any case. As Robert
says, the exterior is covered with felt or building paper.

Regarding the OSB in lieu of drywall, I'll point out that OSB can be
used as a thermal barrier covering foam insulation in a heated
crawlspace. I suspect that codes would allow it in a detached shop,
though I am no code expert.