Frank frankdotlogullo@comcastperiodnet wrote in
:

Jim Yanik wrote:
"Robert11" wrote in
:

Hello,

I posted this a few days ago, but it apparently never made it to the
group ? Funny, this has never happened before.
If this ends up being aduplicate post, I apologize.
---------------------------
Hello,

Have a real old wooden bed frame that is in pieces, that I would
like to put back together.

It was originally held together by very large Biscuits, and a few
Dowells, it appears.

Re the biscuits:

a. Should I use an epoxy glue, or perhaps that Gorilla Glue which I
think they call an acrylic adhesive ?
Which would be better ? Why ? (anything even better these days ?)

b. Some of the biuscuits have old, very hard, dried glue on them.

Would either the epoxy or Gorilla glue work (well) if I don't go to
the trouble of sanding them clean ? Or, must I really get rid of
the old stuff before either would grab ?
(looks like a lot of work to try and sand them clean)

Thanks,
Bob




here's a repeat of my answer;

Polyurethane glues are not meant for gap-filling applications.
Biscuits(new ones) are meant to swell from moisture in the glue,to be
very tight mechanically in addition to the glue bond.
Glue Epoxies do not get absorbed into the wood,and have a weaker bond
than a glue like Titebond.Clamping can also squeeze out too much
epoxy,weakening the joint.They do fill gaps nicely,and would work
better with the old used biscuits,as the old biscuits have a glue
coating that would prevent absorbtion of a polyurethane or
Titebond-type glue.

it would be better to use NEW biscuits(or make a spline) and
Titebond. (biscuits are cheap,and worth it.)

Wood Magazine recently did a test on biscuit/dowel joints,tested
their relative strengths and ease of use. They also have done glue
tests.

you also need to remove the old glue from the biscuit slots or dowel
holes,as the old glue will prevent the new glue from soaking into the
wood.

new glue is not going to bond well to old glue.

I responded too and your post confirmed my suspicions that Gorilla
glue is a polyurethane since it foams on curing. Titebond sounds like
the standard type polyvinyl acetate as is Elmer's glue.

Titebond is quite a bit better than Elmers Glue(white glue),and there are
thick,non-drip and waterproof versions of Titebond(II and III).

I would use
them but epoxies should also work and there are probably grades made
for wood.


boat fiberglassing epoxies will be thin enough to soak into wood but need
fillers(like wood flour,chopped glass,chopped plastic fiber,fumed
silica,phenolic microballoons) added to use as a glue.You first apply the
unfilled epoxy mix to soak into the wood,then add fillers for gluing.

System Three has an inexpensive (~$10 US PPD) trial kit (epoxy,several
fillers,mix cups and sticks,and a piece of fiberglass)that is very
nice,comes with the Epoxy Book(also downloadable)that is a must-read.
West Systems Epoxy is also very good,and personally,I use RAKA epoxy.
I started out with the System Three trial kit.It's WELL worth the money.

S3 and West epoxies are widely available,usually at woodworking stores and
marine supply stores.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net