Chuck Harris wrote:

Robert Baer wrote:

Chuck Harris wrote:


The answer is simple all joints should be good mechanical joints. The
socket will last longer if you bend its pins outward so that they are
leaning
against the pad before you apply solder.

-Chuck

I do agree that good mechanical connections make for reliable
connections.
But.
On all of the monitors i have fixed so far, the CRT socket pins were
bent over and were touching / flat against the traces.
Furthermore, the original soldering was "blobbed" on; ie very thick
(and crappy looking).
All of that does tend to reduce and spread out the mechanical stresses.
My fixes are to remove all of the solder and replace it with a
"thin" workmanship-like hot soldering job. The fixes seem to last
about as long as the original.


Puzzling. The current in a CRT base is insignificant... microamps on
most of the pins, and 150ma on the filament pins. I have never
had one fail, but for a case where there was 1/32 inch of solder ring
around the pin. Once I bent the pin over and resoldered, it never failed
again... In fact, I have never had one of my solder joints fail at anytime.

The reason for the big soft blobs is to limit corona on the various
CRT bits. It is done by using a good fat 60/40 solder, and a low
temperature
soldering iron. 60/40 solder builds, 67/37 flows like water. 67/37 is
about half again as strong as 60/40.

-Chuck
TV sets seem to *never* have the problem, because they do not have
the stress from a sponge in the back, and monitors in storage also do
not have a problem until years after use.

I know the currents are small, but on monitors, it seems the cathode
connections are the first to go.