MassiveProng wrote:
On Thu, 12 Apr 2007 04:55:30 -0500, "Anthony Fremont"
Gave us:

Chances are that the
display was only being driven by 12V. Just imagine how long they
would last in a vehicle seeing 14V all the time.

If the drive circuit was designed properly, they should be able to be
the same brightness for a voltage range of say 7 to 16 volts. That
would be what a good designer would build anyway. A regulated front
end on the circuit would be required to achieve any repeatability with
the final product.

Since we're already here and everything, can you show me a schematic of how
to do that? No fair if others help. :-] I fully imagine that the
manufacturers drive circuit consists primarily of a resistor. I haven't
checked, but I'm not paying $20 for four LEDs in a cute chrome housing to
find out.

I have trouble choosing things, so I have a project using tri-color LEDs for
the back lighting. I'm fairly sure that I'm in violation of numerous
patents by now, but I came up with my ideas a few years back when people
were still shelling out $1000 to have their bike done in a single color at a
rally. Homey don't play that, that's ridiculous pricing.

It's still too expensive for kit stuff, just look at these prices:
http://www.chromeglow.com/store.asp?pid=14445

I also did a replacement self-canceling turn-signal controller that
(optionally) strobes the lamps for maximum visibility. As a side effect of
doing it right (;-) it is also load independant and short-circuit proof.
Automotive high-side drivers are cool parts, even if their pin-outs suck. I
did that project because a factory replacement module is almost $100, screw
that...PIC chips are cheap. Necessity is truly the mother of invention.
;-)