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n cook n cook is offline
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Default Copper or brass wire mesh

Arfa Daily wrote in message
...

"N Cook" wrote in message
...
I'm thinking of reinforcing solder points on dropper resistors,

subjected
to
vibration. Forcing a small pad of mesh over the lead and burying in the
solder.
Other than proper suppliers for large quantities, what sort of
shops/conventional applications would use it.?
My local decent hardware shop has nothing , a local machine mart has
expanded brass sheet but that is too coarse. Would there be a
gardening/horticulture use?

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/



I have done this sort of thing in the past, and have just tightly wrapped

a
few turns of tinned copper wire around the leg, before burying the whole

in
solder. Seemed to work ok.

Arfa



Thats what I've done before and bits of desolder braid and stripped coax
shielding and also scraping back board/trace lacquer for more contact area
and folding back leads along traces before soldering.
Eventually found a hobby shop with what I was after
2 copper and 2 brass 80 mesh 5 x 6 inch sheets, bit finer than I was after
but finer is better than coarser.
Amaco of Indianapolis , Wireform Metal Mesh and Wiremesh woven Fabric.
Presumably bigger sheets of it are used by the mind control nutters.
A 2 hole paper punch makes neat 5mm pads and a needle to make a pilot hole.
While there I could not resist a bag of miniature wooden 3/4 inch long
sprung clothes pegs by Artstraws ,Swansea, for holding small bits while
soldering or gluing, as I use the full size traditional wooden ones for so
many things , including broken apart for wedges.

I can only assume I will see more and more of these bad joints due to
lead-free soldering.
Just this afternoon I returned a marshall valvestate to its owner.
I had previously, last year , had to reinforce solder the main caps, which
is common enough with leaded solder in combos. At that time I did not
realise it was probably lead-free soldering especially as made 1998.
This time 5 different medium size components had bad solder.
Including one I've never seen from normal use rather than over-current/
heating. A flat-pack bridge rectifier had one visually obvious bad joint.
I pushed on the adjascent corner with just finger pressure of perhaps 8 to
16 ounces and that pushed through.
I had told him about this lead-free business when he dropped it off.
When he picked it up he said he'd mentioned it to a relative of his who
works for Marconi Aerospace and he was told the same about the problems
they have with it in their area.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/