Sounds like a good plan. It would keep the original attic cooler in the
summer and provide a cold roof for the winter - no ice dams, if they were a
problem in the past.

"Mac the Nice" wrote in message
...
We are presently restoring a 1,250 sq. ft. log home built in the early
'70s, sited on a spot without a leaf of shade over the roof. The pitch of
the original roof (built of trusses) is approximately 1:4 which strikes us
as being pretty low even for the southern Missouri Ozarks where there is
now and again a fair amount of snow come winter, and the avg. yearly
precip. is 43.6 inches.

The structure was built of oak logs from 6 to 10 inches in diameter and
raised in three stages--leaving a central, original structure of 28 x 22
with later log additions either side 25 x 14. Standing in front of the
place you're looking at an overall log-built broadside of 50 feet with
north & south additions indented by three feet at the front, but forming
an even exterior at the back. The roofs over the north and south additions
are approx. one foot lower than that of the original central building.

We want to frame one roof (at an increased pitch) over the entire
building, leaving the original roofing in place. We would superimpose new
ridge beams and rafters from either side of the stone masonry chimney to
both gable ends about two feet higher than what's there now, to leave at
the peak that much ventilated air-space covered by Ondura corrugated
asphalt impregnated fiberglass--with no plywood sheathing, but a framework
of planks over rafters (16" on center) spaced about 8 inches--wider if
feasible.

This would be ventilated from both gable ends and at the soffits, and
further so by fans installed at gable vents.

In short, we want to build a condition of shade over the original roof.
Can this be done, or are we just dreaming like the pair of amateurs we
are? If otherwise it seems a sensible plan, we'd want to remove those
three layers of baked, crumbling shingles from the original roof surface
and put down some form of rigid insulating material, such as the commonly
available foil-faced sheathing or whatever would stand up to the
heat--there would be at least 6 inches of ventilated air space at the new
soffits between the corrugated roofing and the insulation sheathed
original roof.

Can this work?
--
Mackie



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