On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 14:46:35 +0100, "Brian G"
wrote:

Arthur 51 wrote:
On 17 Jul, 12:12, "Brian G" wrote:
Arthur 51 wrote:
Hi all.
Finding 10" by 1" oak or beech is not very easy. So having ordered
a 1/2" router
I can now consider T & G two 5" wide peices.(without bevelled join)
If I do some research on this will it be doable by a first timer or
expensive firewood?

Thanks.

Arthur

Arthur,

You would be better off 'shooting' the boards with a 'jointing'
plane and
using the 'rubbed' glue joint method as opposed to t&g for finished
joinery - there are various methods for doing this by the way.

A couple of reasons why:

1 - If you use t&g you won't have enough area for the glue to hold
properly. 2 - That area will have 'hollows' in the surface from the
machining
process - which will again reduce the glue area to the tops of these
'hollows'
3 - The above may well lead to shrinkage after gluing - and
certainly will
if the joint isn't glued.

As a matter of interest, if you are having difficulty in sourcing
your
materials, have you tried a local sawmill - see the link for a list
-http://www.touchlocal.com/nat/c-1713-Sawmills?

If there is one near to you, you should have no trouble getting them
to cut
your material to size - especially oak or beech.

Brian G - not a stair expert by the way, just an old chippie.

Is 'Shooting' the cutting of a square groove on one edge and square-
ish tongue on the mating edge?

Arthur

Arthur,

The 'shooting' of a board is to plane the edge true and square thus removing
the tiny hollows left by the planer or router cutters which can cause
problems when gluing up.

The point of shooting is that the planing doesn't have to be exactly
square, just straight.. As long as you shoot both boards together any
inaccuracy of 'squareness' will be cancelled out when you place them
edge to edge.

--
Frank Erskine