Arthur 51 wrote:
On 17 Jul, 12:12, "Brian G" wrote:
Arthur 51 wrote:
Hi all.
Finding 10" by 1" oak or beech is not very easy. So having ordered
a 1/2" router
I can now consider T & G two 5" wide peices.(without bevelled join)
If I do some research on this will it be doable by a first timer or
expensive firewood?

Thanks.

Arthur

Arthur,

You would be better off 'shooting' the boards with a 'jointing'
plane and
using the 'rubbed' glue joint method as opposed to t&g for finished
joinery - there are various methods for doing this by the way.

A couple of reasons why:

1 - If you use t&g you won't have enough area for the glue to hold
properly. 2 - That area will have 'hollows' in the surface from the
machining
process - which will again reduce the glue area to the tops of these
'hollows'
3 - The above may well lead to shrinkage after gluing - and
certainly will
if the joint isn't glued.

As a matter of interest, if you are having difficulty in sourcing
your
materials, have you tried a local sawmill - see the link for a list
-http://www.touchlocal.com/nat/c-1713-Sawmills?

If there is one near to you, you should have no trouble getting them
to cut
your material to size - especially oak or beech.

Brian G - not a stair expert by the way, just an old chippie.

Is 'Shooting' the cutting of a square groove on one edge and square-
ish tongue on the mating edge?

Arthur

Arthur,

The 'shooting' of a board is to plane the edge true and square thus removing
the tiny hollows left by the planer or router cutters which can cause
problems when gluing up.

Brian G