"RicodJour" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Jul 6, 10:51 pm, "Phil-in-MI" NO Spam &
wrote:
Did anyone ever find the correct answer to this puzzle?

http://answers.google.com/answers/threadview?id=344364

We just came across this puzzle at work.

Thanks,

Sorry, I wondered into this NG from rec.woodworking NG.

This is an old-tyme puzzle, that is normally phrased
How-did-the-nail-get-there-in-the-first-place.
Lots, and lots of posting on this puzzle, and the solution along with
it's
companion, the wood pencil in the wood block on Wood Working forums, NGs
and
so forth.

(the solution was on the Public TV show, The Woodwright's Shop with Roy
Underhill a few seasons ago.)

Soak the wood in boiling water for several minutes. (actually, a whole
lot
longer than several minutes!)
Compress one end (section) of wood in a wood vice, and squeeze to
compress.
(Takes a
lot of effort, vice must be bolted to workbench. A
"put-your-back-into-it"
type of effort.)
Wood will remain compressed until re-immersed in boiling water.
Normally, will return to original size.

Some tips:
Type of wood does mater, softwood (Pine, Redwood, etc.) is better than
hardwoods (hickory, maple, white oak, etc.)
Can be done with Red Oak, but scrap 2x4 Pine is so much cheaper.
Wood with larger distance between growth rings is better than close dense
wood growth rings.
Wood should start off as kiln dried, less than 10% moisture. (Walls of
the
cells
and all that...)
Wood grain direction makes a difference (flat straight grain, and NO
KNOTS.)
Vice with hardwood jaws will leave fewer scars to give away the solution.
The end sections are normally twice the length of the middle sections. (I
don't know why; IMHO, for looks only.)

Why wouldn't the nail rust and stain the wood? That would certainly
point towards water being involved in your...errr...solution. I
suppose the nail could be stainless steel, but I've never seen a 16d
common stainless nail.

R

I was kind of wondering why the wood wouldn't swell around the nail, making
it all but impossible to extract.