On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 03:00:56 GMT, "Maxprop"
wrote:

A lot of my problems with oak undoubtedly deal with my relative
inexperience. I've been turing about two years and have a lot to learn
about the process. I keep my tools sharp in the extreme, so it must be my
technique. I've no delusions about that. And since the original poster
mentioned that he, too, is a neophyte, I thought my experiences might be
more appropriate to his situation than that of some of the more experienced
turners herein. I'm sure many contributors to this NG can turn oak with
nary a problem. However at this stage of my experience, I've pledged to
keep frustration at a minimum--life seems more pleasant that way. :-)

I think more of your problems with oak come from the large difference
between radial and tangental shrinkage and the fact that it does not
have interlocking grain, and splits easily- which is what makes it so
nice as firewood. My hat is off to the guys who can do it well- they
must have some really good voodoo dances, but for the rest of us
slackers, it's too much trouble, and doesn't have that much visual
punch when it's finished.

If you turn dry oak, it shouldn't ever be that much trouble- but most
of us turn wet wood (I think- I do, anyways) and that's where the
trouble and agonizing over drying methods comes in. My favorite
woods have interlocking grain- meaning, there is an obvious grain, and
then a sort of "subgrain" pattern when you look at it. Birch, Maple,
Elm, etc. all have this in common. It's not only more interesting to
look at, IMO, but it's better at resisting cracking. Some of them
warp a lot, but I usually expect a bit of that, and plan pieces so
that the warp is part of the design. With a bit of observation, it
becomes fairly obvious over time which parts are going to move, and in
which direction.