In article .com,
wrote:

J.B.Wood:
If you would have had this fixed before it quit altogether a shop
probably could have done the repair for about $40 to $60 or so....
resoldering connections near and around the vertical deflection output
circuitry and flyback derived B+ supply and may replacing some high
ESR electrolytics.... now that the television has quit altogether
and there is a burnt smell the repair and parts price will be much
higher and extent of the repair will be much more involved.
From the sounds of you questions and how you handled the faultering
television to start with it sounds to me like you are way over you
head on this one. My advice is that you take it to a repair shop for
at the very least a repair cost estimate so you can make an
intelligent repair deciesion with real numbers from a real tech who
opened the set and make tests and measurements.
If you want to further investigate a DIY repair you should go to the
website for this newsgroup at
http://www.repairfaq.org/
There, with some search time, you will find a wealth of
troubleshooting, testing, repair and IMPORTANT SAFETY information
regarding television repair proceedures.
Best Regards,
electricitym

Thanks for the response! You make some excellent points but I doubt a TV
repair shop these days spends a lot of time troubleshooting and soldering
at the board component level. There's just too many surface-mounted
components to deal with. I suspect if the shop can trace the problem to a
board assembly it becomes a swap out issue. Then there's the issue of
whether that board is available for an 11 yr old set. If that faulty card
cannot be replaced then the shop would probably say the set's not
repairable (or alternatively put, "you wouldn't want to spend what it
would take to put the set into working order").

I was hoping to get some insight into what board(s) might be at fault in
my set and then attempt a swap out. Sincerely,

John Wood (Code 5550) e-mail:
Naval Research Laboratory
4555 Overlook Avenue, SW
Washington, DC 20375-5337