On Thu, 21 Jun 2007 17:59:19 -0000, Ben wrote:

On Jun 21, 4:09 am, Doug wrote:
On Wed, 20 Jun 2007 12:40:34 -0700, Paul Flansburg

I'd agree with the above except that a tankless coil CAN be replaced.
Many boilers about the age of your Weil-McClain and newer have used
stainless bolts to fasten the tankless coil. In any event, with some
caution, time and penetrating oil, I've removed tankless coils. A
replacement coil is only about $150 plus labor if you don't do it
yourself.

Here's a picture from the inspectors report that shows the boiler.
You can see that there's a lot of rust at the bolts that hold the coil
in place. One of the oil company service people said that we could
try to replace the coil, but the risk is that we'd have to end up
replacing the whole boiler if things go bad...

http://tinyurl.com/2vwbl9

-Ben

That rust is from water leakage. It looks like the tankless coil
gasket might already be leaking. It should be fixed one way or
another.

Obvously, I can't tell you what to do but I'd have a crack at
replacing that coil while the weather is still warm.
Try loosening a bolt or two. If bolts snap, they can then be drilled
out, the holes can be retapped and things should go well.
Auto mechanics drill and rethread cast iron for helicoils to repair
stripped spark plug holes. This operation is no different.
What's the worse case? Replacing the boiler?
That will cost you about $2000 to $4000.
Installing an indirect water heater will likely cost you a good $2000.

I find that HVAC pros won't do jobs like this because they don't want
the risk and don't want to spend the time when easier dollars can be
made elsewhere. The fact they don't want to do it doesn't mean that it
can't be done. None of them will attempt acid cleaning of the coil?

Or leave it as is and install an electric water heater as another
poster suggested. It will work fine but your electric bill will
skyrocket. With the limited space that you have, your options are also
limited.

Doug