Sam Goldwasser wrote in message
...
"N Cook" writes:
I thought that ovalling the axial parts to squash in the slots in the
motor
core would be a problem but all went fine, though 7mm diameter when
squashed
to a circle, rather than original about 6mm. The hank resistance of 7.1
ohm
compared to 7 ohm was good. I could not decide if the original was 29 or
30
swg but looks as though it was nearer 30 swg.
A rifenement is to lay a dowel or rod axial and outside the core to tie
the
hank back to while pushing the axial sections into the core slots. The
overall circumference was too long so the ends of the hank overhanged at
the
open ends too much. I will recalculate for 30 swg and have another go.
There
was space in the housing to try out my effort so did have a go
assembling
and running without lacquering in, and it worked fine.
Out of curiosity, how much time have you spent reviving your $10US drill?

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A change is as good as a rest. I wouldn't take on someone elses motor of any
sort to repair.
I like to have an excuse to dig out my old coil winding machine that I
brought back to working order from a seized rusted mess combined with mice
nest that was in a leaky shed for decades.
I originally thought the hank lay up would have to be over a 2 part former
like a pulley split in two, the awkward way, but with a semicircular laying
up section. Then having to manually lay-up (as the auto traverse flip is
only per item , not per layer) something like 3 turns,6,9,12,14,16,17,18 and
down again to 3 for 190 turns. But I know now that a complicated former and
intricate lay-up is totally unnecessary.
--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
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