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Steve Steve is offline
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Default Removing relay without damaging pcb (plated through holes)

On 9 Jun 2007 17:46:29 GMT, Jim Yanik wrote:

Steve wrote in
:

On 3 Jun 2007 18:22:01 GMT, Jim Yanik wrote:

Steve wrote in
:

On Sun, 03 Jun 2007 14:04:16 +0100, "Ron(UK)"
wrote:

wrote:
On 2 Jun, 05:12, wrote:

Which bit do you use? A grinder or a saw bit



I've used a Dremel tool to remove relays, as well as other
components, by cutting them to pieces, carefully, of course. Then
I unsolder one pin at a time. Unless you need to do failure
analysis on the bad part.

Cutting off the relay is the hard bit, as many have quite hefty bits
of steel in them. A cutting wheel in a die grinder (aka dremel)
works, but can be slow.


My own method would be a good hot iron, plenty of solder braid and a
lot of patience.

Ron(UK)

I've often found that in a pinch, you can wick the solder out, re-fill
the holes with new solder, re wick the holes. Sometimes the
re-filling process can reflow the whole joint instead of wicking out
the top half and the bottom never gets hot enough. Of course, not
perfect, and should be done on a scrap board.

Steve


maybe use some very low melting point solder like ChipQuik?
And a vacuum desoldering tool.


I got lucky and we have a nice Pace desoldering station at work, makes
easy work for most items. But, I still have quite a few rolls of
different sized wicks for that fun special occasion, or SM work.


In TEK's SMD training class,we used a newer Pace desoldering system(than
what we had back at the field office),and were told use of wick(or
Soldapult) would lift pads,as wick requires more heat to be applied for a
longer time.
The Pace tip was a lot different for SMD desoldering work.


We have a very small budget where I work, the smd tip we have is just
a very fine point tip instead of one of the chip-size special tips. I
mainly use the desoldering tool for thru-hole items, especially
tedious ones like 40 pin IC's. I have lifted a few SM pads, but for
the most part as long as I'm careful the fine tip and good quality
wick do just fine. I've used tech-spray no clean wick with some good
results. I had quite a few rolls of some cheaper wick, and the flux
on the wick must have gone bad, the solder just doesn't flow to the
wick anymore. I've heard solder and wick have a shelf life, I guess I
didn't used to believe it until I saw it first-hand.

Steve