Removing relay without damaging pcb (plated through holes)
Steve wrote in
:
On 3 Jun 2007 18:22:01 GMT, Jim Yanik wrote:
Steve wrote in
m:
On Sun, 03 Jun 2007 14:04:16 +0100, "Ron(UK)"
wrote:
wrote:
On 2 Jun, 05:12, wrote:
Which bit do you use? A grinder or a saw bit
I've used a Dremel tool to remove relays, as well as other
components, by cutting them to pieces, carefully, of course. Then
I unsolder one pin at a time. Unless you need to do failure
analysis on the bad part.
Cutting off the relay is the hard bit, as many have quite hefty bits
of steel in them. A cutting wheel in a die grinder (aka dremel)
works, but can be slow.
My own method would be a good hot iron, plenty of solder braid and a
lot of patience.
Ron(UK)
I've often found that in a pinch, you can wick the solder out, re-fill
the holes with new solder, re wick the holes. Sometimes the
re-filling process can reflow the whole joint instead of wicking out
the top half and the bottom never gets hot enough. Of course, not
perfect, and should be done on a scrap board.
Steve
maybe use some very low melting point solder like ChipQuik?
And a vacuum desoldering tool.
I got lucky and we have a nice Pace desoldering station at work, makes
easy work for most items. But, I still have quite a few rolls of
different sized wicks for that fun special occasion, or SM work.
In TEK's SMD training class,we used a newer Pace desoldering system(than
what we had back at the field office),and were told use of wick(or
Soldapult) would lift pads,as wick requires more heat to be applied for a
longer time.
The Pace tip was a lot different for SMD desoldering work.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
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