Nick,

As earlier, you want to answer your own question and not that of the poster.

Since you think I am, to use your word, "bluffing", I will answer your
digression. It is patently obvious without doing the "calc" as you call it
that a sealed house will require less evaporation energy than an unsealed
house. There has never been either a question or a dispute in this regard.
An order of magnitude drop in water / evaporation energy consumption occurs
when a corresponding order of magnitude drop in air leak takes place (from
224 to 24), and the exact water used / evaporation energy delta depends on
what assumptions you want to make about desired indoor temperature and
desired indoor humidity, neither of which you specified. For 70% indoor temp
and 30% indoor humidity, you avoid evaporating about .09 gallons of water
per day with the correspondingly tiny drop in energy consumption.

Conversely, if you wanted to raise it to 50% humidity inside, you need more
water / energy, the amount of which is again determined by what initial
indoor temperature and humidity you specify. Since you do not specify the
initial amounts, I used 70% and 30% once again, and, on this basis, see an
increase of .15 gals of water to be evaporated per day.

I have no desire to discuss or debate with you the relative merits of
airsealing versus active humidification, and indeed this is the digression
for which I previously apologized, even though you were (and continue to be)
the one who pushes for it in this thread.

Enough of your nonsense!

*****Plonk*****

Smarty








wrote in message
...
Smarty wrote:

Don't rely on name-calling. It looks and is childish, and undermines
the integrity of your thinking process...

My thinking process is fine, thanks :-)

As to whether a Honeywell Humidicalc with no outdoor sensor sitting in a
basement cold-air return plenum can infer enough from the surrounding
air
and plenum temperature / humidity to make really appropriate guesses
about
what the dew point is remains to be seen in my opinion...

It's easily seen, given the frost control knob feedback, if it measures
the furnace duty cycle, ie how often the duct air is moving. A system
with
an outdoor temp sensor and no user feedback might do a lot worse, with
no knowledge of window R-values.

... I am sorry for the digression which occurred in this thread earlier
regarding energy needed to evaporate water.

That's the important part, you pompous ass :-) Caulking and
humidification
can both increase indoor humidity, but caulking reduces fuel
consumption,
and humidification can dramatically increase it.

If your average US house naturally leaked 224 cfm on an average 30.4 F
Philadelphia January day with an outdoor humidity ratio wo = 0.0025,
how would the fuel consumption change if you

a) airsealed it to reduce the natural air leakage to 24 cfm, or

b) humidified it to 50%, with no airsealing?

Your thinking process doesn't seem up to these simple calcs,
even with 2 engineering degrees. Consider your bluff called.
Perhaps you should give up now :-)

Nick