On Thu, 31 May 2007 15:57:22 -0000, (Chris
Lewis) wrote:

According to mm :
46 to 85 dollars plus shipping. One model will iiuc control two
pumps, although maybe it would be better to have a separate switch for
each????

Or you might be able to open up the current one and replace only the
electric switch if that seems to be the problem. I wouldn't be
surprised if the real problme is that the switch is loose in its
housing and only has to be glued back in place. Regluing so that it's
waterproof would be the hard part here, but maybe not so hard.

Perhaps more likely that the switch assembly has gotten corroded and
gotten stuck, or the contacts have gotten welded. A couple hard shakes
or knocks against something might clear up the problem, but unless you
can see the contacts, I wouldn't trust it except under "supervision" ;-)

If you were to replace it, I'd be worried about getting the pump itself
sealed again.

I looked at one of the webpages I cited, farther down, and it turns
out the switch they sell doesn't use a separate switch. It's a switch
constructed within the float, and it uses a metal ball that moves
between contacts, or not between them when the pump is off.

If this weren't a critical use, I might still try it, but you're
right, one doesn't want his sump pump to break.

If you need to replace the switch, it's worth considering a plug-type
switch instead of a direct wire. Bypass the switch circuit inside the pump,
so the pump itself is always on, and seal the housing thoroughly. Then use a
switch like 1002715 on http://www.pumpshop.us/pump-switches.html. Then
if the pump or switch fails again, it's easier to replace, and you still have
usable components.

I converted a pump having one of those for utility duty (emptying a
pool cover), simply by removing the switch. But I'm using the switch
for something else too, sorry ;-)

Local well pump shops should have these things on the shelf.