"David F. Eisan" wrote in message
...
Hello everyone,

I put in an offer on a house last week (one with enough room for all my
tools!). One of the conditions was insurance. I have run into a little bit
of a problem. My Insurance company wants an electrician to certify in
writing that everything is "safe".

Anyone know how I get this done? The offer clock is ticking...

Who has had problems with their insurance agent with regards to aluminum
wiring, and how did things work out?

Thanks,

David.


Hi David,

Some comments from a guy with 30 years as a licensed electrician, working in
the eastern Missouri area.

1.) As stated by a few others, the problem with aluminum is *mostly* at the
connections to the receptacles, with lesser issues at switches and even
fewer at lighting fixtures. In the US the National Electrical Code (NEC)
requires that all devices (switches, receptacles, etc) connected to aluminum
wire be manufactured specifically for that purpose. If a home has aluminum
wiring that is installed in accordance with the NEC, then I see no reason to
be fearful. We have *thousands* of homes in this area completely or
substantially wired with aluminum wire.

The use of "copper-only" devices and/or improper connection techniques
accounts for the majority of "aluminum wire problems" that I have seen.
And, in the majority of aluminum failures I have seen, the installation
technique was at least as much the cause as the improper device. During
upgrades, I have removed copper-only devices that have been properly
connected to aluminum wire for 30+ years with no sign of overheating of any
other signs of deterioration. (By properly connected, I'm referring to the
connection *technique*, not the fact that connecting aluminum wire to copper
devices is "properly connected".)

2.) Replacing all the copper-only switches and receptacles with those
manufactured for use with aluminum wire will go a L O N G way toward
improving the reliability and safety of the wiring. We do this for
approximately $17 per device, (labor and materials included). Also, an
examination of all wiring that appears to have been added after the home was
built is strongly suggested. This is because it is possible, and even
likely that this later-installed wiring may be copper. Copper/Aluminum
splices require some extra care and speciality wirenuts to make a safe,
secure splice.

3.) In the minority of instances when you can't locate a device specified as
suitable for connection to aluminum wiring, then the next best practice is
to make a copper/aluminum splice using a short (6-8") piece of copper wire,
common called a "pig tail" and the proper splicing materials and techniques.
Then connect this pig tail to the non-aluminum rated device. In the US,
this method is accepted by the NEC, but it is not the preferred method. We
use this mostly for connecting GFI receptacles and other speciality devices
to aluminuum. In our area we can't buy GFI receptacles manufactured for
direct connection to aluminum wire. Also many dimmers and other electronic
devices, specify connect to copper only. And nearly all lighting fixtures
either specify copper only or come with a copper pig tail already attached.
There are some special purple wirenuts available for connecting copper and
aluminum wires

4.) Insurance companies can make your life miserable with this issue. In my
area we have a couple insurance companies who make a huge deal of aluminum
wiring. But, the majority of them want the house in compliance with the
electrical code; and if it meets the code, the type of wiring doesn't
prevent getting insurance.

5.) Aluminum service entrances are still the "standard" in much of the US,
and properly installed, meet the NEC and all the safety standards. I
haven't seen a metersocket or main electrical panel manufactured in the last
30 years that wasn't listed for use with aluminum service wiring.

6.) And no disrespect what-so-ever to Mr. Hodgett; but it would be one HUGE
house that it would take $50K to rewire. In this area, a 1500 square foot
ranch home can have all the aluminum wiring replaced for *considerably* less
than half that amount. We've recently seen prices in the $10K-$15K range,
(approximately $10-12/ square foot) and that includes a new electrical
service. Of course as others have cautioned, YMMV. ;)

Gary Kasten, licensed electrician