On May 25, 7:00 pm, Sam Goldwasser wrote:
"R!" writes:
Sam Goldwasser wrote in
:

"R!" writes:

Sam Goldwasser wrote in
:

OK, it's microcomputer controlled, so does that qualify as
electronics repair even if the micro isn't the problem?

This unit is about 19 years old and now has started leaking mostly
or totally when it's draining. The drain hose is in good condition
and is not obstructed. The water appears to be coming from the
area near the back of the horizontally mounted motor/pump assembly.
It's less than a cup of water for the entire wash cycle,
which a pan can easily catch, but of course these things will get
worse. I don't believe it's a hose or connection problem but can't
rule that out.

Any info appreciated.

Thanks.

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I used to repair appliances when those were new, There was a problem
with the bearing and seal on some of the wastegate valve shafts. It
has an electric coil that moves it during the drain cycle.

The wastegate valve is used to force the water down the drain, it
only has a high pressure on it during the drain cycle.

The seal is a very small teflon like washer on the inside, but what
usually hapened was the shaft developed a lot of "slop" (worn
bearing) in it's movement.

This sounds very much like what might be happening.

Do you think these parts are still available, or will the party line
be to "replace entire motor/pump assembly"?

Might a workaround be possible? Add a washer to reduce slop in the
bearing or something?

I think that was one of the early models with the "PermaTuf" tub,
which was all plastic. If so there should not be a rust problem.

The shaft on the motor would rust sometimes and damage the shaft
seal, this usually leaks between the black motor and the fiberglass
pump housing, this usually starts small and gets worse. The seal is
not that

But this would ball the time while the motor/pump is running, right?

expensive but getting that fiberglass pump apart without breaking
something else is next to impossible. The complete assembly is not
too hard to change 2 Large hoses, 1 or 2 Small hoses , one screw
whitch holds the support hanger and 4 electrical wires, make sure to
turn off the electric service to the dishwasher before servicing
since it should be hard wired, does not have a power cord.

Right.

Would I be correct in expecting that I can remove the motor/pump with
the dishwasher in place? It sounds imple enough, just limited acess.

Check the drain hose and clamp since these were usually installed in
the field at the time of installation.

Right, by me 19 years ago. I do intend to check the simple things
first!

Thanks!

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page:
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Repair | Main Table of Contents:http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
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| Mirror Site Info:
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Item 417 Shaft seal ...Wastegate

SEAL SHAFT 417 WD8X181 $12.75

Item 434 Motor Shaft seal...

SHAFT SEAL ASM 434 WD19X52 $43.25

Housing with valve is NLA

PUMP HOUSING ASM 311 WD19X42 $30.00

Complete Pump assembly...

MOTOR/PUMP ASM 310 WD26X10013 $150.50

Hope this is helpfull...

Yes, thanks for all your posts.

I've seen some Web sites with the complete motor/pump assembly for about
$100. Would you not recommend them if I did have to replace the entire
thing (though I doubt those in charge of finances would go for it anyhow!).

I've also heard of rebuilt motor/pump assemblies, or is that what
this would be?

Or, I could just keep the pan underneath it the way it is now......

First step is to confirm where the leak is!

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page:http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents:http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
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- Show quoted text -

Please, keep us posted as to what you find and what you decide.

H. R.(Bob) Hofmann