Ian wrote:

9) When the retaining bolt is out, the thread in the crank is actually
smaller than the hole in the disc through which the retaining bolt
passes. Furthermore this hole is threaded to take a bolt to draw the
disc off the crank. I'm not very up on bolt threads but I THINK it was
described as 1/4" when I got it. It is about 7/16ths diameter and
pitch is about 19 per inch. The head has three radii on it which I am
sure indicates something! Over to someone else on this one.

I cannot conceive how screwing a bolt back into the crank after you have
removed on from it will 'draw the disk off.'

The normal method is to put a scrap bolt in the crank and hit it very
hard with a mallet to break the seal between the crank and the disk.

Allegedly. I chickened out.

Apologies about the reverse threaded thing..I was thinking of a ride on
I stripped last year where one or both of the blades had a reverse
thread on ..



10) As to the blade orientation. The polythene packet that the genuine
ones (or it might be the bolts for the blades - you are going to
replace those as well aren't you?!) has a nice little piccie showing
how they mount. I've just had a look at my machine and from the where
it is clear the rotation is anticlockwise viewed from underneath. In
the normal operating position the chamfer on the blade is uppermost.

I apologise if all this sounds patronising, it is not meant to be! I
was struggling to describe positions without points 1-3!

Don't forget to :
a) change the oil whilst you're there - the drain plug is under - or
over depending on your viewpoint - the disc!
b) coat the crank and the retaining bolt with Coppergrease when
reassembling

Good Luck
Please reply to group - email address is not monitored
Ian