Steve wrote:
Ray K wrote in
:

Steve wrote:
Ray K wrote in news:3u20i.2185$V01.191
@newsfe12.lga:

I just posted a photo in alt.binaries.test. Subject: Sample
asbestos shingle. Time 1:28, 5/8/2007. I should have mentioned that
all the shingles needing replacement are in the bottom course.
(Careless lawn maintenance people and landscapers.) They are mainly
chipped, like you see in the photo at the left bottom corner.
I recommend that you run a piece of 1x4 along the bottom. That's my
standard solution for clients who don't like the cost of replacing
siding. If the wood is properly primed, caulked, and painted, it
will last for years, though not as long as cementitious shingles.
When if fails, it's easy to replace. Use cedar with the smooth side
out for longer life.
Steve,

Sounds like a great idea, especially since the damaged ones are the
inconspicuous ones along the sides and back of the house and do not
face the street or entry. Do you bevel the top, to improve water
runoff, or just rely on the bead of caulk? I'd have to predrill the
asbestos shingles every so often, right?

Could a J-channel that's normally used at the bottom of a vinyl
siding job serve the same purpose? One problem might be color if I
tried painting vinyl, but factory white would be acceptable. Yes, I
know of vinyl's shortcomings: brittleness over time, fading, etc.

Ray

I've never seen it beveled, but it wouldn't hurt.

As a second thought, use HardiTrim and it will never rot.

I suspect that making the J-channel look right would be difficult. It
might be obviously something just stapled on.

Yes, I'd pre-drill the asbestos shingles -- no sense breaking them more.

As an alternative, you can put them on with construction adhesive. You
might HAVE to do it that way if there's no wood behind the shingle where
you need the fastener.

Steve,

My handyman assistant is coming over in a couple of hours. I'll discuss
your great ideas with him. Many thanks.

Ray