The number of brick ties to sheathing will have very little to do
with your problem. The lintel is just not right. The wood was
probably undersized, wrong grade, or wrong species. The lintel
iron was not strong enough to carry the load. You need to
determine if the wood portion has bowed down to verify the
diagnosis of wrong wood. The fact that the brick has bellied says
the steel lintel was undersized. The two should not have been
tied together in my opinion. One of many reasons I don't like
brick gables.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Daniel Fenner" wrote in message
ups.com...
On May 1, 1:20 pm, "Art"
wrote:
Most brick veneers houses are poorly done. Visitwww.bia.orgto
read the
tech reports to learn how brick veneer should be installed.
The lintel
could be too thin or not long enuf. Also the masonry is
supposed to be
fastened to the wood house studs every couple feet. Since most
builders put
opaque paper on top of the sheathing before bricking it up, how
could the
masons possibly know where the studs are unless they are marked
on the paper
(never done). On top of that, many masons leave out flashing
around doors
and windows and leave weepholes plugged. I had all of these
defects in my
new home and had to hire a mason for big bucks to fix them all.
That is why
I will never again buy a brick veneer house.

"Daniel Fenner" wrote in message

oups.com...



I've been in a home for one year now, that was built 8 years
ago. The
garage has a brick gable, with a window in the middle, above
it. It
appear that the lentil that the building company put in is
not strong
enough to support all of that weight and is starting to sag
in the
middle which has caused the brick above it to start
separating (one
large verticle crack from the window and growing larger as it
moves
down to the lentil. My QUESTION is, what is the best and
cheapest
repair for this. I've had a range of recommended fixes from
taking
all of the bricks out and replacing the lentil, to putting in
lagger(?) bolts and tuck points(?). Is the latter option
just a short
term fix? Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks, Daniel-
Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You made an interesting point that the masonry "is supposed" to
be
fastened every couple of feet. If I find out this is not the
case, is
the home builder somehow liable for this problem? The house is
only 8
years old and it's my understanding that under Oklahoma state
law,
home builders are required to have a 10 year warranty on their
homes
(looking into the details of this). Any thoughts? I'm hoping
for an
inexpensive fixso that I don't have to go the legal route.