On Sun, 29 Apr 2007 09:56:27 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

I have a spare set of woodwork (trim) for my car I'd like to re-do.

Flat Triumphs are easy, convex curves like door cappings are a bit
harder and concave shapes (some dashboard ends) are a *******.

Books: Tage Frid's first cabinetry book . Not cheap, but an excellent
all-round book.

Technique uses hot hide glue (not cold) and a veneering hammer. Then you
vacuum bag it, especially for convexes. An easy vacuum bag to find are
some clothes-storage vac bags from Lidl and a vacuum cleaner. Or you can
make your own with thick poly sheet and gaffer tape. You don't need
anything resembling a vacuum, just a pressure differential. If you're
veneering a thin panel over a framework buck then you don't even _want_
a vacuum, just a few psi difference - otherwise you end up with "starved
dog".

Hot film glues only work if you have a heated press and a shape to match
(i.e. flat). Dead easy if you have though - you can even make your own
hot films with PVA glue.

Contact glue is a bad idea for veneering. It's easy, but it's awfully
crude and the results usually disappoint. It might work if you vacuum
bag and you're not fussy about positioning, i.e. you're not fussy about
figure placement and you can trim generous edges afterwards.

Tools are a veneer hammer and a veneer saw. You can't buy either
ready-made, but you can make your own. Hammers are easy enough (use a
3/16" brass edge and make it well rounded). Saws are most easily made by
buying one (Axminster) and then stoning the sides until the teeth are a
knife-edge along the length of the blade.

As a finish for UK saloons, french polish is good. Not UV stable enough
for foreigners, boats or convertibles though.

Either move the ignition switch off the dashboard or use Rustin's
Floorcoat to finish. Nothing else is hard enough to resist keys banging
against it. It's also good for door cappings.