On Thu, 26 Apr 2007 19:08:46 -0700, al wrote:

Assuming no help, which I'd prefer, and assuming little to no
experience, as I noted in an earlier post, would it be feasible to
afix a longish, shallow "L" bracket to the ceiling to support one end
of a board while I worked with the other end and over towards the
bracket, moving the bracket over every couple of boards or so?

Also, assuming that I wouldn't be able to work with boards long enough
to span the ceiling, is it better to randomly space joints or have a
set pattern. A book I looked through shows joints arranged in a set
organized pattern. That is, one board is 10' and the one joined at its
end is 8'. Then the row next to them is a board 8' joined by one 10'
and so on 10 and 8, 8 and 10. I suppose it depends on the look you
want, but random seems more interesting to me.

And thanks for the comments in the earlier "stupid question?" post, by
the way.

I agree mainly with what the other posters have said, but while Anthony
has some good stuff there I disagree with him in one point.

I have done heaps of floors, some walls and a few Cedar ceilings, but I
never end joined the boards with a mitre. Never. I always slightly
undercut the square joint and then get the joints as tight as possible
before fixing.

I am not keen secret nailing on floors, but I always to it in walls and
ceilings. Pre dill a hole through the tong and use fine pins and punch
well.

Holding long lengths in position before fixing always calls for a bit
of invention. Depends on the job and any spare material you have at hand.
There's always an easier way. Plan it first. e.g.. I might get a couple
of spare ceiling battens say 3ft in from each side, square off the boards,
clamped near the finishing end, and propped from the floor to underside of
my first board fixed.

Use an offcut of the same boarding to protect the edges if you have to
apply force to get the joints tight. Don't just belt, cramp, lever the
tong or groove without protecting it.

--
Bill
http://www.builderbill-diy-help.com/