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Al Bundy Al Bundy is offline
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Default Storage building siding options...Hardiboard?

"Colbyt" wrote in
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wrote in message
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Hello, all.

I will be constructing a simple 10' x 10' outside storage building in
my backyard this summer. A 4" concrete pad has already been poured,
and as I plan construction, I am considering exterior siding options.
I have read quite a bit about Hardiboard vertical siding material.
This product, which apparently comes in 4' x 8' sheets, is paintaile
and rot-resistant. However, I've also read that it is a bear to cut,
and dry-cutting produces some really *bad* silica dust that should be
avoided.

So, my initial enthusiasm for Hardiboard has been tempered, and thus
I'm still considering other options. I would appreciate any
suggestions. I don't mind (and, in fact, would prefer) to paint the
exterior rather than rely on product color that may fade/vary over
time, as vinyl does.

The storage shed will be a pretty simple structure; wood-framed walls
on 16" centers w/ 1/2" plywood sheathing.

TIA for any ideas.

-intrepid



Affordable options pretty much limit you to vinyl or the hardie
product. Cutting the hardie outside is no big deal. A simple dust
mask and eye protection is enough.

I would avoid lap siding and T-111. They just won't hold up long term
from the rain splatter. BTDT.


Colbyt




I agree with you Colbyt simply because people won't keep up the
maintenence on it. They really should put the low maintenance $ into it
up front.

But for those who have up front constraints and use it, keep it away from
the ground as far as possible. Prime it! Especially THE EDGES towards the
ground. PRIME the couple of feet up the back too. Don't use cheapo paint.

Another option is to run a 12" wide Hardiplank
http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner.../harditrim.php
on the bottom around the perimeter then start T111 above that.

There is a channel made to join horizontal separations but do not know if
this will work if both pcs are not T111. And it can be ugly.

More attactive way to join is use some billion year caulk (hmmm..wonder
if roofing cement would work?) in the joint prime and paint. Put a 1x4
trim board (primed front and back) over the joint but first bevel the top
edge along the lengh on a table saw like:

|\
| |
| |
| |
---

Before mounting over joint put some more billion year caulk (roofing
cement bad idea here) along the back of the top edge so it squishes out
when you attach it and just wipe. I've often seen where the trim board is
nailed up unprimed/painted, cheap caulk applied where the board meets the
siding, then painted over. The caulk dries out and water gets trapped
between the backside of the 1x4 siding. Board rots, siding rots, and then
some.

Couple of pics where I used the beveled trim on existing damaged siding
where it met brick.
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2yo8jd5
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=4dvpufl

My helper: http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=30ht0ds

Here's a pic of what it would look like with 12" hardiplank, siding
and 1x4: http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=47ipbix

Al...