wrote:
And those oils NEVER will cure, either. Nothing in there to make them
cure.
I may or may not be correct in assuming that someone is trying to
mimic Mike Mahoney's Walnut oil finish, but the stuff at Walgreens or
at your local supermarket won't do it.
(clipped for brevity)
Robert
Googling on "walnut oil finish' turned up some interesting observations
regarding walnut oil.
"Unlike some vegetable oils, walnut oil eventually will polymerize to a
hardened finish, and it contains no potentially harmful metallic
driers."
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworki....aspx?id=26047
(this after noting that a cloth soaked in Mahoneys Walnut Oil had not
hardened after a week and had been set in the coldest part of the room.
It was a sabotaged experiment, as Mahoneys oil is not meant to be used
in that fashion and cooling will slow the hardening of almost any finish.)
"Non-catalyzed oils: It takes some searching to find linseed in a
non-catalyzed form. Tung oil is readily available in both forms and
walnut oil is usually only available as non-catalyzed. Although all
three oils are edible, walnut oil is the only one available in the oil
section of your grocery store. Basically, the only difference between
catalyzed and non-catalyzed oils is the time it takes for the oil to
dry, harden and cure. Catalyzed oils dry in 10-24 hours, non-catalyzed
will take 75-90 days. That walnut oil from Hain you may have been
applying to your flute takes three months to mature, during which time
oils go through sticky to gummy to semi-hard to hard phases. Should you
have any doubt about the drying time of non-catalyzed oils pour out a
thin layer into a lid (or other thin flat container) and observe the
hardening process over its course."
http://www.navaching.com/shaku/oil.html
While a three month drying time (at ambient conditions) seems like a
long time, it IS somewhat shorter than 'never'. Moreover, we typically
rough turn bowls as much as a year ahead, so what's an additional 3
months for a deep soaking in walnut oil IF there is a reason for using
walnut oil (such as its clarity) over some other?
I found several similar observations as well as this rather long
write-up from a fellow practitioner who has found a way to skip with the
lengthy dry times. Basically he is doing what Mahoney does, applying
heat to hasten the polymerization of the oil but, whereas Mahoney stops
while he still has a shippable product, this guy carries it through to
its conclusion.
http://handturnedbowls.biz/data/finish%20process.txt
Bill
PS -- I am in full agreement to skip the walnut oil with anti-oxidants
added -- the walnut oil needs to oxidize.
--
http://nmwoodworks.com/cube
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