"Ebodski" wrote in message
...
"BigWallop" wrote in message
...
And also this is a handy site to have a read through.
http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/plumbing/plumbingpage2.html
---
http://www.basecuritysystems.no-ip.com
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.519 / Virus Database: 317 - Release Date: 17/09/03
Actually, I don't think it helps, it just gets me past first base, but the
following edited list still applies :-
Q1. Does the hot water circuit use pump or just gravity?
You'll have to trace back along the pipes from the coil in your hot water
tank to find out.
Q2. Should switching to HW on my control unit make the motorized
valve
shut ( & trip off the pump if answer to item #1 is gravity )?
It depends on the type of system you have in Q1.
Q4. Is one of the 22m pipes in the piping arrangement just the vent
to
my header tank?
It depends on the type of system you have.
Q5. Why have a -15°-+10 thermostat in the garage? , but none in the
house , and in which parameters does it work.
A thermostat fitted externally is more than likely a what is known as a
frost guard. It works by sensing the external temperature and if it falls
below the set level, then your heating kicks in to stop the house freezing.
Q10. I've never attempted to put any corrosion inhibitor into the header
tank and there's no filtration of any kind in the system. Should there be
either ?
Inhibitor is a good idea, especially in hard water areas (lots of lime and
things in the water), but is not totally neccesary. Filters would only be
used if the supply water was known to contain large contaminants, but if
fitlering was needed on your system, then it should be documented on the
boiler or a system diagram for cleaning routines.
Q11. I've just bought replacement sychron motor, but I can tell which
position the gear quandrant should be in when I mount the motor in
position.
All I can tell is when the motor is hanging loose and I switch W+H, then
motor activates without stopping.
A synchron motor, as with any standard motor, will continue to turn when
energised until told to stop by some kind of switching system. The small
micro-switch in the motorised valve is such a system.
Q12 my zone valve has 5 wires, brown/blue , white/black and green earth.
The black/white is a contact switch which mades contact as the gear
quadrant
ges down. What is supposed to happen as a result of the black/white
contact
being made ?
A motorised valve has two wires which carry the power needed to make it
turn. It also has some wires which connect to the switching in the valve
head and these are used as signalling connections to the timers or
programmers and tell the boiler to fire up or the pump to run or the system
to shut down and switch off completely and it depends on how the system
setup is configured.
Q13 My control/timer unit is a randall 103E . I can unscrew the bottom
plate
but how the hell does the face plate come off so I can see the wiring ?
Usually the timer/programmer seperates from the back plate by loosening, not
removing, screws from the bottom or top of the unit. When loosened the face
place lifts to 45 degree angle away from the screws and then lifts off
completely when freed from moulded lugs on the back plate.
Q14 Throughout all the messing about I've been doing, in every condition
the
CH pump appears to be constantly running. Surely something must shut down
the pump ?
This switching depends usually on the motorised valves. Motorised valves
contain micro-switches that, when wired to suit the system, tell the boiler
to fire up, tell the pump to run when needed and generally take care of the
flow of heated water arond the system.
Q15 My HW tank has two 15mm pipes which have concentric reducers
terminating
at the top of the tank ( I pressume some kind of HW circuit bleed. There
are
screwdriver slots in the top of the reducers, but I would like to try and
unscrew them as they made not go back in place. Has anyone ever seen such
an
arrangement and I am safe to try and uncrew them ?
These reducers sound very like air bleeder valves. If you slowly undo one
of the bolts, water should rise out. If you are getting air or even just a
hissing sound, then your system has to much air and not enough water.
Heating air and trying to circulate it around your water and radiator
circuits is not the best way to heat the house. You really need all water
in the pipework to do this the most efficiently.
Help !
IJ
Have a look at the sites I offered and then try to trace the pipes in your
system to where they match and where they differ. Make some drawings or
notes on the things you discover that are different and then get back to us
with a description and we'll try help you through what the differences are.