"BigWallop" wrote in message
...
And also this is a handy site to have a read through.
http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/plumbing/plumbingpage2.html
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Actually, I don't think it helps, it just gets me past first base, but the
following edited list still applies :-
Q1. Does the hot water circuit use pump or just gravity?
Q2. Should switching to HW on my control unit make the motorized valve
shut ( & trip off the pump if answer to item #1 is gravity )?
Q4. Is one of the 22m pipes in the piping arrangement just the vent to
my header tank?
Q5. Why have a -15°-+10 thermostat in the garage? , but none in the
house , and in which parameters does it work.
Q10. I've never attempted to put any corrosion inhibitor into the header
tank and there's no filtration of any kind in the system. Should there be
either ?
Q11. I've just bought replacement sychron motor, but I can tell which
position the gear quandrant should be in when I mount the motor in position.
All I can tell is when the motor is hanging loose and I switch W+H, then
motor activates without stopping.
Q12 my zone valve has 5 wires, brown/blue , white/black and green earth.
The black/white is a contact switch which mades contact as the gear quadrant
ges down. What is supposed to happen as a result of the black/white contact
being made ?
Q13 My control/timer unit is a randall 103E . I can unscrew the bottom plate
but how the hell does the face plate come off so I can see the wiring ?
Q14 Throughout all the messing about I've been doing, in every condition the
CH pump appears to be constantly running. Surely something must shut down
the pump ?
Q15 My HW tank has two 15mm pipes which have concentric reducers terminating
at the top of the tank ( I pressume some kind of HW circuit bleed. There are
screwdriver slots in the top of the reducers, but I would like to try and
unscrew them as they made not go back in place. Has anyone ever seen such an
arrangement and I am safe to try and uncrew them ?
Help !
IJ