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Bob Simon

On 22 Mar 2007 06:36:57 -0700, wrote:

On 21 Mar, 14:56, Bob Simon wrote:
On Wed, 21 Mar 2007 02:20:36 GMT, James Sweet
wrote:

I went to the local parts store and they did not have either the triac
or the diac. They did have a TNE5646 "Triac with Internal Trrigger
Diac", which I purchased. This is also a 600V device and it handles
10A.

Can I simply install this in place of the BT137F and jumper between
the two holes on the circuit board for the missing diac?

You should be able to, give it a shot, worst case it won't work.

It didn't. The pot/switch also had problems. I removed it from the
circuit board, squirted in some tuner cleaner, and worked the shaft.
Now the pot works good mechanically and electrically but the switch is
still unreliable.

I hate to give up when I'm so close. Is there any hope of repairing
the switch if I open up the pot? What about finding a replacement
that will fit into the board?

The only markings on the pot are T S on the bottom of the casing.
The circut board it came from is labeled Golo. Does anyone recognize
what either of these are?

switches are easy to repair, they usually just need a scraping of the
contact points.

NT

Thanks to all who helped me on this project. The lamp is now back in
service. The dimmer works perfectly. I wasn't able to fix the switch
because I couldn't figure out how to replace the spring contact that
came out when I opened the bottom of the potentiometer case, so I
jumpered accross the contacts and plugged the line cord into a
switched power strip.

When I turn the dimmer to the off position (max resistance), the bulb
turns off completely. Does the lamp still use power in this position?

If it's not too much trouble, I'd like to fix this "right". Is there
any reasonable chance that I could find a 300K ohm pot with integrated
switch that would fit directly onto the circuit board? If not, where
is a good place to buy a 100W 120V dimmer module?