When I used to chainsaw all my blanks, I would run into binding
problems. It wasn't a blade tension problem, it was the bottom of the
blank not being flat. The blank would tip when cutting (due to the
downward pressure of the cutting action, similar to what can happen if
you try to cross cut a round piece on the bandsaw), and this would
bind and even break the blade. With your blade tension all the way up,
if you push on the blade with your finger (with the saw off of course)
there should be as much as 1/4 inch of deflection, with firm pressure.
If there is more deflection than this, then there is a tensioning
problem. You may be able to solve that by getting a slightly shorter
blade, or you may have to harrass Grizzly about it.

I do keep a small sharp hand axe handy to touch up some blanks before
putting on the bandsaw.

I don't use templates of a circle cutting jig. I use a compass to
scribe a circle and keep your blades sharp.

Most blade tension guides are way off.

robo hippy


On Mar 21, 9:29 am, "BillR" wrote:
wrote in message

oups.com...

I need help so I can cut out 10 or 14 inch round bowl blanks from
green wood on my bandsaw for woodturning on my lathe. The problem is
that my blade flexs too much and I can't do any more adjustments to
the guides or tension.

I understand your problem to be blade flexing. It is not clear whether this
just happens when you try to cut blanks or all the time.

I had the same problem with a new bandsaw, it would not even cut in a
straight line whilst using the fence. If I used it to follow a straight
pencil line freehand (not using the fence) I could do it but I noticed that
the wood was apparently being fed to the blade at a slight angle.

I had bought a spare blade with the saw but from a different manufacturer so
I changed the blade. Problem solved.

I managed to get the problem back when I tried to cut a screw. The blade
just managed to catch the screw with one side of the blade and blunted the
teeth that were set to the left.

If you try to cut with a blade like this it will flex. The problem, as I see
it, is that the blade cuts better on one side than the other. When you have
a decent thickness of wood the guides at top and bottom hold the blade
straight but in the middle the blade tries to cut a circle and flexes.

This may not be anything to do with your problem but I would try cutting a
flat sheet to see whether you have a straight feed.

Good luck.

BillR