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[email protected] wklkj@rochester.rr.com is offline
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Default Kreg Pocket Jig question - face frames and cabinet doors

I'm getting ready to re-face my kitchen cabinets in oak. The cabinets
are in great shape, but they are 1970's colonial, dark,dark, brown.
I'm an amateur woodworker but am very particular in the quality of the
finished job.

I've tried a few methods of fastening together the rails and stiles of
the cabinet doors and until I saw your pocket drill at Lowe's
yesterday, I was going to go with a method of making a a 'stubby'
mortise and tennon joint. I have limited woodworking equipment but I
do have a nice table saw and a pretty good power miter saw. Anyway, I
made a sample M&T joint and it looks pretty good, but took me quite a
while to get the table saw perfectly set up. You know what I mean,
I'm sure. If the tennon was too long, the rail and stile didn't mate
up tight and if it's too short, then there's a gap in the middle slot
that's cut out for the middle door panel to slide into.

I've also been scratching my head to figure out how to fasten together
the new face frames before attaching them to the cabinet boxes. It
seems to me like the pocket drill should be the perfect application
for both the cabinet doors and the face frame construction.

Here's my questions:
Which kit do you recommend if I am going to use the pocket drill
exclusively for 3/4" oak doors and face frames?
I don't understand why the two pieces of wood stay flat (parallel) if
the screw is going in at an angle? Wouldn't that angle stress 'bend'
the wood joint out of flat?
Would you use this drill kit for both the door rails and stiles and
the face frames or just the face frames?
Here's a question a little off topic but I'm sure you know the
answer...What's the best way to remove the existing face frames from
the cabinets? They look to be oak or pine solid wood frames but I
can't see any way that they're attached to the cabinet boxes. I
suspect they may just be glued on.

Thanks for your help!