On Feb 19, 4:09 pm, "GG.and.UN." wrote:
We are doing quite a bit of remodeling in our house including new
countertops, redoing the hard wood floor, and painting the kitchen
cabinets.

The kitchen cabinets were real ugly - 70's looking with huge knots.

Two coats of shellac, cut 2 lb. Spackle to fill the tearout. Those
knots are history.

We bought some alkyd gloss Benjamin Moore paint and have been painting
the cabinets with some natural bristle Purdy brushes but we can't seem
to get a smooth finish. We had originally cleaned them with TSP,
applied some oil-based Bullseye Primer, sanded,

What was the open (workable) time for that primer? I just did
a bookcase with Benny Moore Impervo satin (will definitely
use again). Burgundy, so needed a dark primer. Rustoleum
rusty metal (!) gave me plenty of time to lay the paint smooth
with no need to sand. Dead opaque earth brown; one coat saved
me three coats of Impervo.

put on a coat of BM,
sanded, and another coat of BM. Unfortunately you can still see the
brush strokes. It looks good if you stand a foot away but if you look
closely you can easily see the brush strokes. So, we decided to use
foam rollers. We tried three different kinds from the local paint
store and purposely asked for contractor grade foam rollers.
Unfortunately these all leave a slight orange peel look. So now we
are considering spraying.

My question is:

1) What are we doing wrong vis a vis brushing and rolling. What are
some good tips to get a glass finish?

2) If we did want to spray, should we go HVLP with turbine, gravity
fed, or what? I called all the local rent a centers in a 60 mile
radius and no one rents the systems. I'd be buying one and do not want
to spend more than $500; I'm even think of getting some touchup
gravity fed gun from Lowe's or something.

Any ideas - all are appreciated!

Old, but well-cared for 2" Linzer black China bristle. Penetrol,
25%.
Went on like glass. One visitor thought I used Formica.