Or you could apply it first, then do ALL the sanding after it has dried,
which may do something for you


"bent" wrote in message
...
This is expensive I would think, but poly would follow the contours of the
cracks, whereas this may fill and bridge. The specific applicator like a
modified plastic oil can or huge syringe, etc. may be essential, and
timing, and amount. I wouldn't expect to be able to chisel/sand b/c
damage to the surrounding area may be too dangerous.


"bent" wrote in message
...
I just searched for the term bar top or bartop but then realized its from
the rec.woodworking (the wreck) NG. May have more luck copying it over
there too. I am not a chemist and do not know the answer on how to use
this product in this context, nor any other answer.

(for OE)
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Message...,
"bartop" in Subject: OR Message: field

I just had a thought about drizzling it into the gaps before or at the
same time as another coat of hard-surface (non-Spar/marine/floor) poly.
One knowledgeable about chemistry would advise best method, however I
would think avoiding extraneous sanding a priority. I have done poly
floors like that with a lambswool applicator on a pole. Its like a
mophead you wrap a lambswool pad around.

http://www.parish-supply.com/lambswool_applicator.htm


wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi,
.
my wife and I live in an old apartment with wooden floors. The floor
is fine for the most part but it has started to show its age.
.
the main problem we have right now is there are big cracks between
alot of the wood slats - the cracks are very visible, and fill up with
dirt. Also, the slats are giving in and make quite a bit of noise
.
landlord did some sh!ty work with putty that has cracked and creates
a mess*
.
We would like to fill the cracks witha material that will not allow
dirt to fall between the wood and that is durable and also looks
good.
.
Both my wife and I have no problem whatsoever with doing the work
ourselves.
.
what would you suggest?
.
lbrtchx




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