Jason wrote:
I'm having a contractor to build a short wall (sheetrock and 2x4's,
roughly 6' wide, 7' tall, and 5" thick) to help separate a rather
large basement into 2 rooms. The original plan was to connect one
side of the wall to an external wall, and leaving a gap of about
12" from the top of the wall to the drop tile ceiling. The opposite
end would be a square column of about 12" that would connect to a
beam in the ceiling, cutting the drop tile to fit around this
column.
If that doesn't make sense, think of an L laying on it's back, with
a really thick back and narrow leg. My house came with several walls
built this way, so we're trying to make this one match, and at the
same time help with heat/AC flow.
But I've been thinking. One room is going to be a gym, and the other
room will hold a pool table (essentially, a game room for when
friends come over). While everything will fit OK with the wall
stationary, I can't say that it's a GREAT fit, and certainly
doesn't leave any room for expansion; especially in the gym. So I'm
trying to think of an alternative.
The best idea I can come up with is to make the wall movable, and
this is where I need a few opinions. Ideally, I would be able to
push the wall further into one room or the other, giving that room
an extra couple of feet when needed while still separating the
rooms. In order to do this, I'm thinking that instead of nailing
the wall to the external wall and to the ceiling beam, I would use
something like drawer guides, and then place heavy weight casters
on the bottom.
Here are my questions:
1. Will this work? If so, how sturdy can I expect the wall to be?
Very flimsy.
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2. Is there a better way to make a wall mobile to fit my needs?
Probably. An architect - especially one working on commercial
buildings - would be helpful.
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3. If this is a good idea, where can I find 48" drawer guides? All
I'm finding are 24" rails, which aren't exactly right; the rails I'm
finding are long and separate out into 2 or 3 parts, while I would
prefer a stationary rail with a connector mounted to the wall (like
you see on older drawers)
Assuming guides would work, what's wrong with ones that are in
multiple parts? Any guides you used would by necessity be exposed and
I'd think the shorter the better. You'd need guides both top and
bottom...at least four. I know Knape Vogt makes guides at least 36"
long but I don't think drawer slides are a solution. I'd think tracks
(mounted horizontally on fixed wall at each end, top and bottom) and
wheels would work better.
I think you might do better to stop thinking of what you want as a
"wall" and think of it as a "divider". Do that and you get more
options...
1. A free standing accordian fold screen or screens
2. Bifold doors, track across the top of the room
3. Bypass doors, track across the top of the room. Obviously,
only half the area could be opened up with these.
4. Freestanding divider on casters.
For the latter option you'd need considerable depth for it to be
stable. A hard surface floor would be best.
I once had a long, narrow room like that, built a cabinet 96x96x24.
Lower portion had cabinets accessible from either side. Above the
cabinets was an open area about 18" high and above that were
bookshelves on one side, china cabinet on the other. It sat on a
carpeted floor and was solid as a rock...probably weighed 1000#
loaded.
When redoing the condo before selling I needed to move the divider for
new carpeting (it went with condo, too big too remove). To do so, I
tipped it slightly in one direction and slipped 3/4" blocks under at
each end on the raised side; then tip the opposite way, add
blocks...repeat until it cleared the floor enough to slip a piece of
ply with casters under each end, then remove blocks so it sat on the
castered ply pieces. Once done, it was duck soup to push it around on
the now uncarpeted floor.
--
dadiOH
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