In response to Robert's suggestion that I explain this little project, I submit
the following "term paper". (Robert's request can be found at the bottom of the
message.)


The Project:
Refinish a pre-Civil War drop leaf table that has been in my wife's family
since it was made.

The Plan:
take the table apart so that the joints could be re-glued and also to make
removal of the finish easier. Pre-finish the various pieces using Deft Brushing
Lacquer. I usually use shellac when redoing older pieces, but in this case, the
table lives in the front hall and sees some abuse that shellac would not easily
withstand.

First steps:
the table was completely disassembled and the old finish was removed
mechanically. This went reasonably well. The table had been refinished in 1929
and through the years the joints had loosened considerably. The top was held in
place with some (what appeared to be) #10 slotted wood screws.

Legs, aprons, and leaf supports:
These were sanded down to 220 and the finish went on very nicely.

The top:
This is where the problem reared its ugly head, or should I say eyes.
The table had been used as a laundry table at some point in its life. Even
though I had sanded it sown to what appeared to be nice bare mahogany, when I
applied the lacquer, fisheyes appeared. There were a few on one leaf, a larger
number on the main top and the second leaf looked like it had some kind of
disease.

I place a query on this group (see below) and got a number of varied, but
helpful and insightful answers.

The final solution:
Once again the finish was removed and the top was sanded down to 320. When I
was satisfied that it was as clean as it would ever be, I applied three coats
of sanding sealer. I sanded with 320 between the first and second coat and used
0000 steel wool between coats tow and three.

I then sprayed three coats of Deft lacquer (in the aerosol can), rubbing out
with the 000 wool between each coat. I probably could have continued with the
spray process, but the delivery from the can was not what I was looking for.
Basically, I wanted a barrier coat between the sealer and the final brush
coats. The spray coats were to protect the sealer from possible brush drag.

The final coats wee applied over a three day span to allow full drying between
coats. I don't care that the can said I could recoat in two hours. I just was
not comfortable with that scenario. I also disregarded the can's instruction
saying the there was no need to sand between coats.

Again, I resorted to my 0000 steel wool.

The final coat went on and was not sanded.

I attached the top to the reassembled legs and apron, cut an acrylic sheet to
protect it from soda cans and potential plant drippings.

It is now back in the hall where it is no longer an eyesore. :-)

A couple of notes:
I used mineral spirits to remove any dust left from sanding (or wooling)
between coats. When I was finished with the main top, as I was cleaning the
brush, I noticed to little drip blobs. I carefully took the brush, wet with
lacquer thinner and did a quick little swipe over the two blobs. They
disappeared and there is no sign of them in the finished project. Whew.

Again, I would like to thank all of those who responded to my initial query.
Their responses were very helpful and put me on the right track.



On 8 Feb 2007 21:02:49 -0800, "
wrote:

On Feb 8, 4:06 pm, Bill Waller wrote:
On Mon, 29 Jan 2007 20:17:53 -0500, Bill Waller wrote:
I am using Deft Brushing Lacquer to refinish a mahogany table top. The first
coat appeared to go on well. The second coat developed what appear to be
craters in various places. I sanded with 320, cleaned with mineral spirits, and
recoated. The pock marks came back.

I have never used any kind of lacquer before.

The job is done.
I would like to thank all of those who took the time to put me in the right
direction. I ended up using three coats of sanding sealer after sanding off the
botches lacquer job.

I then sprayed several coated of Deft spray lacquer and finished with several
more coats of the brushing lacquer. I probably could have left it with the
spray, but the build-up I got wit the brushing lacquer is what I really
wanted. Although the can says that sanding between coats in not necessary, I
felt better rubbing the surface down with 600 paper between coats 1 & 2 and
then 0000 steel wool between the final coats. FYI, I used 400 and then 600
between the coats of sealer. Old habits die hard.

The table is now back in its home in the front hall. :-)

Good for you Bill. Sounds like you tamed the monster. Since this all
started a while back, I think others would enjoy it if you would start
a new subject on the goup and just post exactly what you did, that way
others could learn from you, too. Also, it is a good thing when
someone takes the time to thank those that attempted help out. You
got some good commentary going here.

Just my 0.02.

Robert