End grain - wet or dry wood
Hi Bill,
I like the other commentors, tried "termiting".
Man was I shocked into intimidatioin. That sucker will grab in a
heartbeat.
I studied on the design of this tool and made my own, finding a
carbide insert shaped like the business end of the termite. The
trouble was keeping the tool at a proper approach. If you got too
close to the corner where the bottom and the wall meet, watch out.
I went on to make scraping inserts for my homemade tool, that were
ground differently. They had only a slight "scoop" on top, and the
thickness was parallel with the wall so it would only let me go so
deep. I also added an outrigger to my tool shaft to stabalize the tool
so it would not tilt or roll to one side.
This produces a great finish on my end grain bottoms.
The bit is a flat top piece that is rounded, but at the cutting in, I
ground a slight angled cut. Wish I could draw what I am saying, but it
works like regular scapers do. But inside a bowl or cup, you dont have
room to angle a scraper handle way down, so that angle is ground in to
the tool bit. So the tool and bit are held horizontal, but you still
get a good approach angle.
The big thing is it stopped catches while cutting fine, smooth
shavings eliminating tear.
If you can get a tool designed for this, find some thick scraper bits
that fit it. Grind a relief angle just behind the cutting edge on the
top surface of the bit. Try that. Much safer and cleaner.
cad
handturnedbowls.biz
On Jan 30, 10:27 am, "Olebiker" wrote:
I have been roughing out bowls with green wood and am having a tough
time with end grain tear out. Does the end grain tear out less once
the wood is dry?
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