On Feb 6, 11:17 am, Eeyore
wrote:
Haaky wrote:
On Feb 5, 7:55 pm, "Arfa Daily" wrote:
"Haaky" wrote in message
ups.com...
Pretty unlikely actually. 7A is not a preferred value so it'll be hard to
come by. You
could always try 8A though to see if it makes a difference.
Graham
Wouldn't i be running a bigger risk putting in an 8A fuse instead of a
7 or a 6.3?
I'de rather the fuse blow instead of a more expensive part.
If it's knocking out a 6.3 amp fuse, and the correct rating that it's
expecting to have in there is a 7 anyway, then trust me, it will have no
problem taking out an 8. I wouldn't necessarily say the same about a 10A,
but the extra couple of microseconds to blow an 8 is not going to damage
anything else. Have we actually established if you have the proper " T "
rated type in there yet, anyway ? If you haven't, then all of this
conjecture about what *might* be wrong is a useless waste of time, as there
may be nothing at all wrong other than an invalid fuse type for that
application ...
Arfa
I have no idea what type of fuse i'm using. There is no making on it
saying it's a "T"
I checked the web site of the company that makes the fuses and i don't
see any "T" listed for that fuse.
It's 250V 6.3A GFE Miniature fuse made by Conquer.
Google seems to say a GFE type is fast blow.
You need a GDC type ( slow blow ).
I'm gonna take a strol over to the repair shop and see if they have
any 250V 7A or 8A "T" fuses.
I've looked at Radio Shack or The Source up here in Canada the only 7A
fuses they had were 1-1/4 X 1/4 it didn't look like they would fit
into the fuse holder.
I was thinking maybe, could i replace the fuse holder with a breaker?
I noticed the the manual they talk about a breaker switch and not a
fuse or fuse block.
You'll need a 20 mm fuse. like this
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...tId=2102764&cp
Graham
On further inspection of this amp i noticed the Output Transistors are
as follows
2- c2837's as a pair
2- a1186's as a pair
1-a1492 \__ shouldn't these be the same
1-a1186 /
1-c2837 \__ shouldn't these be the same
1-c3856 /
I was just wondering it's probably the design of the amp.
Kind of through me when i took a closer look
I would have thought that each of the last 2 pairs would have been
matching like the first 2 pairs.
Shouldn't the 1 side of the amp be a mirror of the other side. Or is
this because you can switch it to Bridged mono?
Just let me know if you guys are getting tired of all these
questions
.....My head is like a sponge now. The more i learn the
more i want to learn.
i uploaded a schematic onto abse it's in Microsoft Office .rtf form i
had to convert it from PDF to be able to print it properly