On Sun, 04 Feb 2007 23:52:58 GMT, "CW" wrote:

Couple problems I see right off. If you are using the sled, you will need to
level it with your stone. If you change stones, repeat the process. If you
are not using the sled, your stone better be pretty parallel to the table,
otherwise, things are going to get skewed. Also, if running on the table and
you change stones, it better be the same thickness within pretty close
tolerances or you're going to have to reset the tool. How many here have a
perfectly matched set of stones, both parallel and size? Lets see some
hands.

It's hard to tell exactly how it works from the info and picture they
give. From the description if you're using a stone then you'd be
using the rails. You'd only use the sled by itself if you were doing
scary sharp on a flat plate.

What I'm guessing with how a stone gets clamped in is that there are
rabbets on the pieces that go across between the two rails that clamp
the stone. This lets you just drop the whole thing on top of the
stone and it will sit level with the top of the stone. There's the
two feet at the back that support the rails behind the stone, which
you have to level with the stone. I find it strange that the rails
aren't stiff enough to cantilever out a couple inches, and the
leveling feet look to be a real PITA. If I'm understanding all that
correctly, I find it strange they don't sell the rails separately. If
you could just clamp a set on your 2-3 stones and the materials can
handle being underwater you could just leave them on and only take
them off to flatten your stones.

Another question would be if you're using their honing plates how does
the chisel make contact with the next grit? Finer grits are thinner
than coarse grits. If the sled is holding it fixed at that angle
wouldn't you have to readjust the projection of the chisel? I don't
get it.

I wish they had the manual available online like LV does with
everything.


-Leuf