46erjoe wrote:
On 2 Feb 2007 15:00:07 -0800, "Joe" wrotF:

On Feb 2, 12:04 pm, 46erjoe wrote:
In doing some recent plumbing work, I had to sweat a particularly
difficult and oddly shaped joint in the bathroom wall. I was surprised
when I turned on the water valve and it actually held! (I've never
been good at soldering copper tubing,)

Anyway, a week later, it developed a pinprick leak. In the past, I've
tried to re-sweat joints to no avail. But maybe I'm overlooking a
special technique or product.

Any help would be appreciated. I used tin/antimony solder. For now it
looks like I will have to disassemble the whole thing and that will be
a real mess because I will have to tear part of the wall apart.

Thanks.
Using new fittings is naturally best. But I have been lucky to have a
glass bead blaster to use for cleaning fittings. The routine that
works best is to heat the fitting, wipe out as much old solder as
possible with something (I used a paper towel, quickly) and while
still hot, brush it with flux, wipe again and cool, then clean it in
the blaster. Use the fitting before the copper oxidizes again and you
get perfect joints, even with the new lead free solder. I built my
glass beader for less than $100 and that doesn't qualify as an
expensive tool IMO.

Joe



Well, I tried re-soldering. Leak returned. Took it all apart and
created a new routing system. Did as many joints away from the site as
possible then put it together, this time ending up with five sweats.
So far it's holding.

I think I need to find a website with helpful info on sweating copper.
I learned by trial and error and I probably need to UNleard some
things. I also learned that different fluxes go with different kinds
of solder. I thought they were all the same! Hey lead is lead, right?
Wrong.

Thanks everybody. Keep your finders crossed.


Wrong. Lead is lead, but what you solder together
and it's purpose is different. Course you aren't
suppose to be using lead solder for water pipes
anyway.