You most likely need to dress the wheel to remove glazed abrasive and
open it up a bit.
In addition you will get less heat if you radius the wheel to make a
smaller contact with the steel.
A 60grit wheel is more than sufficient, after all you will be honing
the cutting edge after grinding.
If you have not flattened the back of the chisel then your best
efforts will be wasted.

Daily Grind Sharpening Service


On Feb 2, 4:43 pm, Leuf wrote:
I got an 8" grinder. Got an 80x white wheel. Got the spiffy Veritas
rest and holder.

First attempt was with my beater chisel that I use for scraping glue
off the bench and various other nasty business. It actually has a
decent bevel on it for the first time ever now.

Then I went for the pitted #6 blade.

http://www.krtwood.com/burn1.jpg

I was going to show that picture and ask if it was okay if it turned
that color as long as it didn't turn blue, but well once I saw it
zoomed in I could see that it *was* blue in one spot near the top,
which I couldn't see by eye before. So clearly that's bad.

http://www.krtwood.com/burn2.jpg

This blade I still don't care too much about, but it's not garbage.
It's mostly not changed color at all, except for that one spot near
the top again. which this time I don't see any blue. So now I get to
ask my question, is this okay?

The plane iron is thinner than the chisel so I assume it's harder for
it to dissipate the heat. Because it's in the same spot on two
attempts that got hotter it must be a technique thing. I was trying
to just make a light pass straight across, and I went for the water
after every pass. I guess not light enough.

-Leuf